Jump to content

Fanie

Members
  • Posts

    68
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Fanie

  1. Yes, that is what I do, leaving it in the window in the sun. 😉
  2. Thanks Alex, yes I prefer the raw wood finish more than a varnish finish. If I blow the oil with my wife's hair dryer, would there be a danger of warping the wood veneer?
  3. So, I have been thinking what finish to put on the veneer when I am done. I have done a few wallnut gun stocks with a "London oil finish", using boiled linseed oil. It takes a long time to do- each very thin layer of oil must get dry before it is rubbed and a new layer applied. The old recipe went: once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month...... What do you guys think?
  4. Unfortunately I could not find Polyurethane glue, contact adhesive, or epoxy resin in my small town, so my only option was to use PVA wood glue. I apply the glue and then clamp it for 24 hours to try and avoid warping. So far it went well. I also don't have brad point bit drills, so I made a chisel with a round side out of a 8mm steel bolt to cut the holes in the veneer and then finished the holes off with a dremel. Some pictures of my progress:
  5. Thank you Alex. Should I first glue on these strips and finish it off and then glue on the big ends, or should I first glue on the big ends and then the small sides? Thanks
  6. Another queston please: when I glue the veneer to the six edges of the hexagon, should I cut six pieces and glue them seperately, or cut one long strip and bend it over the corners? Thank you
  7. Thank you Alex. That is good advice. I appreciate it.
  8. Thank you Steve. I will do some practicing before I do it.
  9. Thank you Simon, I have found veneer. The company gives away free A4 size samples and they sent me enough to do ten concertinas. Now, I have never worked with veneer. Can anybody please give some instructions how to do it the correct way? How do I get the holes for the buttons and sound holes? Should I first mark the holes with a pencil and then punch it out, and then glue the sheet to the ends, and when it is dry, finish it off with a dremel? Will PVA glue be ok? Thank you for your help
  10. Thank you Theo, but I think I will rather try wood veneer. I think it will look better.
  11. Thank you for your help, I appreciate it. Theo, I have contacted that supplier, I hope they can help. On Aliexpress they also advertise veneer, but international shipping from them to me is a nightmare. It takes over two months and you are lucky to get it. Our postal services is a real nightmare.
  12. Thank you Steve, it is a good idea. I was thinking on putting veneer on it, but in my neck of the woods (South Africa) it is impossible to find.
  13. I just received a very old, pre Chinese, Hohner International (Bastari) D20/40/8. It plays very nice and the sound is very good. It has a red Mother of toilet seat finish, which is pealing off. Some places the pearloid cover is very buckled and I do not think it can be glued back. Can anybody please advise how I can repair it? Should I rather remove all the pearloid plastic and clean and sand the wood and then stain and varnish the wood? Any help will be appreciated. Thank you.
  14. Beautiful instrument. I am also busy with restoration of a bandoneon.
  15. Maybe is was to accomodate the amplifier and loudspeakers.
  16. My cat also likes music. When I start playing, he jumps on my lap and rubs himself against the concertina. When I play harmonica he rubs his nose against the back of the harmonica, as if he is helping to play. My sister has a cat that attacks her when she plays on the old peddle organ. I have wondered, do they really like the music, or does the sound irritate their ears?
  17. Since childhood I wanted to learn to play concertina. About a year ago, during the Covid lockdown, I decided its time to bite the bullet. But what do you buy? If you buy an expensive concertina and cannot manage to play it, then you wasted a lot of money. So, I decided to order a cheap Chinese 20 button Anglo from Banggood. Yes, it is hard to play- the bellows are very stiff, but in a few months I managed to play it and the more I played it, the easier it became. A few months ago I moved on, I found an almost new 40 button Hohner with metal buttons and -ends and leather bellows. What a pleasure to play! I will never be sorry that I started with the Chinese 20 button, and I still play it now and then. Just my 2c.
  18. The reeds we are now talking about are not those that slide into a dovetail slot. We are talking about the after 50000 serial number concertinas with reeds attached to the wood with two screws . They are making them exactly to the same dimensions as the reeds on my concertina.
  19. I belive they will be good, Theo. They said it will be First quality with brass frames. If they must make less than ten sets, then it will be +50% per set. So, I hope there can be enough interest so that we can order 10 sets.
  20. Yes, if I can get nine other people who are interested, then we can order ten sets. Anybody who will be interested in new set?
  21. We all know that the +50000 Wheatstone reeds are different from the before 1938 stuff. So I sent my set of rusted reeds to Harmonikas.cz in the Czech Republic to see if they can produce a replacement set. And I got this answer from Ladislav: Thank you again for sending your sample of reeds, as I could check I have never seen this kind of reeds yet. As you know we are able to produce two different kind of reeds for concertina. One is with the rivet and the other one is with screws and clamps. Now we make these reeds from brass and for these reeds I think is better Material brass the Aluminium. The production is too demanding and we can offer these reeds only in first quality. I have no possibility producing for these reeds in another cheaper quality.. Suggestion for your reeds: - the frame according your sample - reeds are riveted ( like our concertina reeds ) - Material for frame „ brass „ - Price for this reeds set 30 button 164,-EUR ( if you order more than 10 set ) We can make the frame from aluminium, the price then 148,-EUR/set What do you guys think, is there perhaps somebody else who are also interested so that we can order 10 sets of First Quality Brass framed reeds at 164 Euro/set? Thank you
  22. Thank you for the references, I will check them out. I recieved the bandoneon and it is not in good shape. Some of the gussets on the bellows are gone, 39 bellow corners are missing, 15 buttons are missing, and some of the reeds keep on singing all the time, so the pads will probaply have to be replaced. Lots of projects to keep me busy, I am currently working on a Wheatstone Anglo and an old 1880's Stanley reed organ. Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...