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Everything posted by Everett

  1. Thanks for the comments. Several likely suggestions to explore. Well, it is under warranty, so it is off to the tech. There was a lot done to this concertina. numerous repaired cracks in the reed pan, valves replaced, tuned to 440 etc. Seems like it needs some additional fine-tuning (pun intended). Very much worth it as it is a beautiful instrument.
  2. I have a Wheatstone English (1920's) on which some of the highest pitch reeds on left hand (C", E", G", B") seem a bit slow to speak, particularly the C" on the pull. Any ideas? Is it worth having an expert take a look? Humidity a cause? Valves?
  3. I had enjoyed learning to play Mandolin, but it was finding my 1920 Gibson that made me love it. The same is happening with Concertina...I found a wonderful 1927 Wheatstone M21 English... Finding an instrument that is "alive" to you is important.
  4. I play "English" concertina, one-row button accordion (melodeon), mandolin, and penny whistles. I've tried tenor guitar and liked it (frets like a mandolin). I prefer the English over the Anglo concertina (tried both). Perhaps because the English is chromatic and the layout actually makes more sense to me. (3rd's & 5th's close together on same side and bellows is used differently kind of like on a melodeon). I agree you should cut one of the string instruments. Kind of depends on what music you play. I am thinking the Dobro or the Ukulele (just as you say you have) Do you need the volume the Dobro provides? They will drown out a mandolin (as does the 4 stop cajun accordion I play). Do you play bluegrass?...Irish? To me, the Ukulele is the one that really doesn't seem to fit.
  5. Just got an email...my 1927 Wheatstone Model 21 is on the way home from The Button Box...all necessary repairs done, tuned to 440 and ready for many years of pleasurable playing.
  6. I am sure my repair tech is well aware of all the pitfalls and will do a great job retuning my 1927 Wheatstone. I find the "shop talk" to be quite interesting. It gives me a greater appreciation of the skills of every master technician in every trade.
  7. Obviously, becoming a 'Master' at tuning concertina (or accordion) reeds can be a long process. Thank you for the technical discussion.
  8. Now I am beginning to understand. It was what Mr Wheatstone was studying 200 years ago.
  9. Adding solder to the clamp end of a reed is off the table. Using any sort of glue would not have the necessary durability. But, adding a low temp solder to the tip would lower pitch and could be adjusted and fine tuned with diamond files.
  10. Interesting, but the discussion is lowering pitch by adding material at the free end adjusting with diamond files to the desired pitch ( lowering reeds tuned to old pitch down to 440.
  11. You've mentioned this in some other posts and looking to either raise or lower my Jeff duet an approximate semi-tone it seems like a good alternative to solder/scratch even if non traditional. The idea deserves it's own thread but a quick question; does adding material at the base of the reed raise the pitch?
  12. And increase by removing material from tip...right?
  13. Really does sound like a "Duet". Always amazing to think it is one instrument.
  14. There may be a misunderstanding about the tuning method. The way I understand it, the reeds are "old pitch", about 55 cents above 440. Solder is applied to bring the tone down to the right ballpark, then removed with diamond files to bring the tone up to 440. Mr Snope has done this successfully on a number of instruments. Tell me how pitch can be lowered by simply removing material from a reed?
  15. I was somewhat surprised by the cracks in the pan as well. Had it spent time in a very dry climate? I wonder. I can't comment on the tuning method. Perhaps it is simply because it is reversible? I do expect Mr Snope knows what he is doing. Regardless, it will be very nice when I get it back.
  16. Here is what an overhaul of a vintage instrument can look like The concertina is a model 21, 48-key treble, manufactured in London by Wheatstone in 1927. It has flat metal ends, metal buttons, and a newer 6-fold bellows. Most of the parts, besides the bellows and thumb straps, appear to be original. The concertina is in "old pitch", and is approximately 55 cents sharp of A440. There are numerous, small cracks in both pad pans, which have been "finished" by a previous repairperson, possibly in an attempt to fill these cracks.Recommendations:1) Fill the pad pan cracks with glue to eliminate air leaks. This will involve removing and replacing approximately 12 pads.2) Replace the valves.3) Replace the thumb straps. This is, perhaps, optional if you don't find them objectionable; I find them uncomfortably stiff.4) Shim the bellows frame gaskets to eliminate leaks between the reed chambers.5) Shim the reeds as necessary to fit snugly in the reed pan.6) Add solder to the tips of the reeds to bring the pitch down and tune to A440. I believe we discussed this on the phone. It is more time consuming to tune this way, but it eliminates the risk of damaging the reeds by over-filing.
  17. Just bought this Stagi Model W-12 Deluxe (could be W-15): Only $275. Right now, my Wheatstone is getting seviced by Mr Snope at Button Box right now.
  18. I think USPS within the States, but yes, well packed. I have heard problems with UPS honoring insurance, but I guess that means using the UPS Pack N' Ship with high value packages. Of course you need to use a NEW BOX. Also, double box as well, though a good hard case should work well for that.
  19. Just bought a Stagi W-12 Deluxe (could be W-15) on Ebay in mint condition, case and all. 30K Anglo with nice wood and a brown leather bellows. I think I got a great deal. I saw them listed used in three places for $400, $550 and $600, I paid $276 after shipping and tax. Wasn't listed in the best category so no one interested in concertinas really saw it. Anyone ever held and played this model? Another example of Ebay being good for buyers and not so good for sellers.
  20. If you buy an Rochelle from Button Box they will take full purchase price towards an upgrade. One thing to consider.
  21. Lachenal would probably hold value more, if that is a consideration. But, over time, would it require more service? Not sure. Ease of action etc would be the biggest factor in your learning to play. With some caveats, I have always thought a new player should buy the best instrument he can afford. Maybe you should buy the Rochelle to get started (why wait to begin learning to play) while you save for the Lachenal. The Rochelle could be your companion while trekking.
  22. There you go! I play different tunes on the melodeon and the English concertina. Little chance of confusion?
  23. Might I compare playing an Anglo vs an English to playing a melodeon to playing an accordion? I play a melodeon with the in/out note changes, but for some reason, I play an English concertina. Now you have me wondering if I should get an Anglo. Would I find it easier than an English? I don't think so, just different. Subtle differences in rythmn, style and choice of music perhaps? Keep on switching between Anglo and English. It'll come in time.
  24. It can take a while to get adjusted when you return to an instrument you haven't played in a while. Same thing happens with me going between penny whistle, mandolin, button accordion and English concertina. I even gave up guitar...one too many. That's why I don't take up the Anglo...one too many.
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