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Carola

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Everything posted by Carola

  1. I'm revving up to let go of my Wheatstone 48k EC, a sweet machine I got from the Button Box at the Northeast Squeeze-in. (I've switched to Anglo and lost interest.) Made around 1930(?), #32771. 12 years ago they listed it for $2800 and gave me a good deal with a trade-in. RIP Button Box. Vintage hard case, bellows show wear on the bottom, but all air-tight. Plays great. Not sure what to ask for it -- I'm open to informed suggestions. Can open it up to take more pix. I'm in Sacramento. Boring, boring Sacramento. --carol
  2. Break out the champagne -- I got rid of the click! It's not elegant, but it worked. It looks like someone replaced all the springs at some point, and made new holes for the L ends to fit into. The hole in the pad board for the E/F is too wide, so the spring was moving around. I straightened the long part of the spring (that lies on top of the pad board) and tested it, but it still wiggled around. When I held the spring in place with a screwdriver the key worked smoothly, so I used some 24 gauge copper wire to bind it snug against the post (correct word?), fixed a couple more bushings, and Voila! It might get loose again after some play, but now I know what's up. Dave Elliot -- your book arrived today and it is already quite useful. Very clearly written -- thanks! And thanks to everyone for suggestions and information. This is a really nice community. --carol
  3. Hi Howard Someone along the way replaced felt bushing with cloth bits. I "fixed" that particular key, but will get some proper felt bushing when I know what I'm doing. Still waiting on Dave Elliot's repair book to arrive -- I'll find out more soon. Thanks! --c
  4. Hi Dave The click is audible. If i tap the key lightly (not pressing down to make a note) it's metallic -- different from the small dull thud other keys make. The key was fine for the first several weeks -- it just started up out of nowhere. I ordered your book from Hobgoblin; it may arrive tomorrow. Once i get it and learn more about the mechanics, I'll dive in again. And you're right -- this is kind of fun. I hope to post positive results sooner or later. Thanks! --carol
  5. Thanks, Tiposx -- glad to hear it. And thanks for more info re handedness. And Don -- great suggestion! This box has two extra keys (32 not counting air), and that right hand one on the far end can only be heard by dogs.
  6. Thanks, Frank. I took another look and the problem seems to be the spring. it's loose and a bit bent so the lever arm has too much wiggle room. (The pad lands off-center from the hole, but i still get notes.) Is replacing the spring possible for me to do or should I take it to an expert? Just for this week I'll work on learning to love the click. Or play the EC.
  7. Thanks for the welcome and for more information. I popped the hood and found some bushings inside a couple of keys falling out so i fixed those (thanks, Chris), but still can't find what's causing the click. It's not the lever arm hitting the wood (thanks, Gary). It's not the pad itself -- seems fine. Could it be a bent arm or wandering spring? I'll be meeting some folks soon who might enjoy a mystery. Thanks again -- I'll try again tomorrow. --carol
  8. Thank you, SB -- ordered the book! And thanks, Alex. There doesn't seem to be any leak, and I only noticed the irregular pad shape when the clicking started. I searched on clicking in this forum and didn't find anything, so I'm still open to suggestions on how to quiet down that key. Might the pad be brittle and still in need of replacement? Thanks, guys. I really appreciate the help. --c
  9. Hi all. I don't know the names of all the parts, so I'll do my best to describe this problem. I'm new to Anglo, but have done minor adjustments on EC, and I'm not afraid to use a screwdriver. I've had this Lachenal less than 2 months and it suddenly started clicking when the E/F pad claps back onto the wood surface inside. The pad is missing a sliver on the rim about 1/4" x 1/16", so I suspect that's the issue. I just watched M. Pierson's "Concertina Pad Replacement" videos and those are very helpful. What are the other pieces called, the brown disc over the white pad and the cylindrical drum on the end on the wire? Should I replace all three pieces when I do this repair? I think I can get these replacement parts from the seller -- not ready to make my own like Mr. Pierson does. Last Q: I unscrewed the end off the hexagonal frame, but was uncertain of separating the fretted end from the section that holds the main works -- inexperience makes me cautious. Is there a video that shows how to do that disassembly? (I imagine it's simple to do/describe.) I live in Sacramento, and Kline's Music is NG for repair. The nearest seems to be Smythe's Accordions in Oakland, but I'd rather not add three hours of drive time to this. Plus -- big fan of DIY. Thanks for any help! --carol
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