Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Anglo Concertina
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

pentaprism's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/6)

  1. Welcome, Arktrav. You asked a lot of questions. I may know the answers but I think it's better for you to get a copy of Gary Coover's Easy Anglo 1-2-3. While waiting for it (if you don't order the Kindle version), check out this site: Anglo Concertina Among other articles, it has a tutor for the chromatic concertina. For a note chart, go here. I'm just curious: why did you order a G/D vs a more common C/G?
  2. I just checked the price of the Swan - US$ 1,185. I remember paying between US$ 800 and 900 for it. If I were starting out, I'd rather pay a bit more for a restored 20-key vintage. I would outgrow it some day but would keep it as a travel concertina. A 26-key would be even better.
  3. I started with a Swan, and sold it in 6 months. It was a decent instrument if you're not sure Anglo concertina is for you, and it was probably OK for another 6 months for me. But I got impatient because many times I couldn't tell whether the problem was with me or with the instrument. When I found a second-hand Morse Céilí, I jumped on it and have never looked back. In fact, I ordered a new Morse Céilí (different key) when Button Box had them on sale. >> there really isn’t much difference between the quality of the Swan and the Phoenix.... I don't think it is the case. Just look at the Swan - it has no bushings while the Phoenix does. Just the lack of bushings, to me at least, is a source of frustration.
  4. Do a search on The Accordionists Forum. It has some comments re. the Hohner (and many others) line. In particular: Mid-Level Small Piano Accordions: Best bang for your buck? Hohner Bravo 72 Quality? There is a member by the name "JIM D.," who is very helpful. I would contact him before buying any accordion. Note that the second-hand market of PAs is not the same as that of ACs. Most decent second-hand ACs, in particular those from well-known makers (I'm not just talking about Jeffries, but also Button Box, Concertina Connections, Edgley, ... and the likes), command pretty high prices, in most cases can be up to 80% of new prices. PA second-hand market is full of people trying out and then giving up. The prices are much lower than new. If I were to buy a PA right now, I'd get a used made-in-Italy one from Liberty Bellows.
  5. I would also consider CBA. I started with PA, then moved to CBA about a year and a half later. If I were to do it again, I'd start with CBA. I think CBA is more "logical" (if there is such a thing) and more compact (this one is definite). Take the Roland FR-1X/Xb for an example. The PA version (FR-1X) had only 2 octaves on the right side, hardly sufficient for anything, while the CBA version (FR-1Xb) has 3 octaves on the right side, sufficient for most if not all of my playing. Also, try the 1-octave jump on a PA and try the same jump on a CBA to see how easy it is. The only problem is that CBAs tend to be more costly, and not as abundant on Craigslist as PAs.
  6. I started with PA but moved to CBA about a year after. I started learning AC about 1.5 years ago. I don't think playing accordion has helped or hurt my learning AC. It was the same as me learning PA after playing guitar (had to give up due to a problem with my left thumb). Your brain will adapt to different instruments.
  7. >> lots of conscious effort because there’s only audio feedback on finger placement accuracy,... COVID-19 era - masks are the "in" thing. 🙂 Also fixes the issue of "finger placement accuracy." 😎
  8. Among the concertinas I have had a chance to play, my favorite buttons are the ones of Delrin on the Morse Céilí - very smooth, very easy on my fingertips. R. Morse & Co. Céilí Anglo Concertina
  9. I really like my Fuselli Concertina Gig Bag. Its padding is about 2 cm thick. I used to use a hard case for the concertina when going back and forth between my house and my daughter's apartment, but now I'm using this soft case instead. Note that there are different Fuselli bags. Mine is the same as the one sold by Button Box: Concertina Cases.
  10. I have no experience on baffles. But I don't think they are effective in reducing the volume; rather, they are used on one side of the concertina to balance the sound. A 26-key is good, because the "missing" keys (compared to a 30-key) are rarely used any way.
  11. I'm also a new comer to Anglo concertina. In my experience: - I'd outgrow a decent 20-key (e.g. from Barleycorn) in about 12 months. But afterward, I'd still use it as a second instrument. - I outgrew a lousy 30-key (I started with one like this) in about 6 months. "outgrew" is a nice word. During that 6 months, I was frustrated because I couldn't tell whether the instrument or I was at fault! I'm still learning from Coover's "Civil War Concertina," written for 20-key Anglo concertina.
  12. That was what my daughter told me (her research is in theoretical computer science). 🙂
  13. Yes. It's not necessarily logical. It is 7 folds if you count two half folds at either end 🙂 But all concertina websites I know would list this concertina as "6-fold" bellows. Just like the year 2000 - most people say it is in the 21st century. But it is actually still in the 20th century, unless the very first year was 0000, not 0001.
  14. Hello @fiddleal This is the "smaller" version, and it has 6 fold bellows (I noticed the sevenmount website listed 7 fold)? Is a hardcase included? Also, can you please post the note chart. Thanks.
  15. I myself found Gary Coover's "Anglo Concertina in the Harmonic Style" a bit too challenging for me. I then purchased his "Civil War Concertina," which was written for 20B Anglo. After I made some progress with the latter, the former became a bit easier. Both are good books. In fact, all books from Gary are great.
  • Create New...