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pentaprism

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    Anglo Concertina
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    California

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  1. @Gentry, I wouldn't buy a $500 30b Anglo concertina. I'd rather buy a $500 20b Anglo concertina. With either one, if you stick with Anglo concertina, you'll want to upgrade within a year. But you'll want to keep the $500 20b as a second concertina, and you'll be dying to get rid of the $500 30b. I've been there, done that (the $500 30b - actually more than $500), didn't like it a bit, and wished I had gone with a $500 20b instead. Please read these threads:
  2. Why do you have "to unlock the iPad/ phone due to screen"? The apps I use have options that disable the screen lock. Some apps call it "Screen Always On" (that has to be turned on), some call it "Auto Lock" (that has to be turn off).
  3. I'll take "a vintage 20b at Barleycorn" over a Wren any day. With the former, I'd upgrade to a 30b within a year, and keep the 20b as a second concertina. With the latter, I'd be dying to upgrade within 6 month, and I'd not know what to do with the Wren, and meanwhile, I'd be always wondering whether the mistake was mine or was the concertina's.
  4. I wholeheartedly agree with @Totani. I posted this on the other musical forum: "I threatened my wife that if she bought musical instruments or woodworking tools as surprise gifts to me, I’d buy clothing as surprise gifts to her.Works great."
  5. I use forScore with a 12.9” iPad and a Bluetooth page turner and an Apple pencil. Haven’t touched a physical music book for years….
  6. Welcome, Arktrav. You asked a lot of questions. I may know the answers but I think it's better for you to get a copy of Gary Coover's Easy Anglo 1-2-3. While waiting for it (if you don't order the Kindle version), check out this site: Anglo Concertina Among other articles, it has a tutor for the chromatic concertina. For a note chart, go here. I'm just curious: why did you order a G/D vs a more common C/G?
  7. I just checked the price of the Swan - US$ 1,185. I remember paying between US$ 800 and 900 for it. If I were starting out, I'd rather pay a bit more for a restored 20-key vintage. I would outgrow it some day but would keep it as a travel concertina. A 26-key would be even better.
  8. I started with a Swan, and sold it in 6 months. It was a decent instrument if you're not sure Anglo concertina is for you, and it was probably OK for another 6 months for me. But I got impatient because many times I couldn't tell whether the problem was with me or with the instrument. When I found a second-hand Morse Céilí, I jumped on it and have never looked back. In fact, I ordered a new Morse Céilí (different key) when Button Box had them on sale. >> there really isn’t much difference between the quality of the Swan and the Phoenix.... I don't think it is the case. Just look at the Swan - it has no bushings while the Phoenix does. Just the lack of bushings, to me at least, is a source of frustration.
  9. Do a search on The Accordionists Forum. It has some comments re. the Hohner (and many others) line. In particular: Mid-Level Small Piano Accordions: Best bang for your buck? Hohner Bravo 72 Quality? There is a member by the name "JIM D.," who is very helpful. I would contact him before buying any accordion. Note that the second-hand market of PAs is not the same as that of ACs. Most decent second-hand ACs, in particular those from well-known makers (I'm not just talking about Jeffries, but also Button Box, Concertina Connections, Edgley, ... and the likes), command pretty high prices, in most cases can be up to 80% of new prices. PA second-hand market is full of people trying out and then giving up. The prices are much lower than new. If I were to buy a PA right now, I'd get a used made-in-Italy one from Liberty Bellows.
  10. I would also consider CBA. I started with PA, then moved to CBA about a year and a half later. If I were to do it again, I'd start with CBA. I think CBA is more "logical" (if there is such a thing) and more compact (this one is definite). Take the Roland FR-1X/Xb for an example. The PA version (FR-1X) had only 2 octaves on the right side, hardly sufficient for anything, while the CBA version (FR-1Xb) has 3 octaves on the right side, sufficient for most if not all of my playing. Also, try the 1-octave jump on a PA and try the same jump on a CBA to see how easy it is. The only problem is that CBAs tend to be more costly, and not as abundant on Craigslist as PAs.
  11. I started with PA but moved to CBA about a year after. I started learning AC about 1.5 years ago. I don't think playing accordion has helped or hurt my learning AC. It was the same as me learning PA after playing guitar (had to give up due to a problem with my left thumb). Your brain will adapt to different instruments.
  12. >> lots of conscious effort because there’s only audio feedback on finger placement accuracy,... COVID-19 era - masks are the "in" thing. 🙂 Also fixes the issue of "finger placement accuracy." 😎
  13. Among the concertinas I have had a chance to play, my favorite buttons are the ones of Delrin on the Morse Céilí - very smooth, very easy on my fingertips. R. Morse & Co. Céilí Anglo Concertina
  14. I really like my Fuselli Concertina Gig Bag. Its padding is about 2 cm thick. I used to use a hard case for the concertina when going back and forth between my house and my daughter's apartment, but now I'm using this soft case instead. Note that there are different Fuselli bags. Mine is the same as the one sold by Button Box: Concertina Cases.
  15. I have no experience on baffles. But I don't think they are effective in reducing the volume; rather, they are used on one side of the concertina to balance the sound. A 26-key is good, because the "missing" keys (compared to a 30-key) are rarely used any way.
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