Seth

This Lachenal I just restored the bellows on and cleaned up is working very well except for one thing that’s driving me crazy. #4 on the right side, 20 button Anglo, leaks on he push only and I’ve done everything, new springs, new pads, changing the height of the fulcrum, bending the action rod as originally it was being pressed on by the end plate once screwed on. Its fine until I tighten the end plate fully seated and then the #4 pad gets loose and doesn’t seat on the action board hole with enough force to keep it sealed. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve taken the end off. Going coo coo....

Thanks Dana, I hadn’t seen a concertina using them and wondered if it was ever put into use. I do see them on your website now. It’s a very neat invention for sure.

Here is the underside..it has a spring like a clothes pin.

Exactly, it’s a quick adjustment for the hand strap. Seth

I noticed in Herold’s papers a drawing of a handle with a spring mechanism with a pin built onto the hand rest to hold and adjust the arm straps. I started going through his boxes and found several of them. I know he was always inventing & trying new things. Anyways, I thought it was interesting. Cheers, Seth

Stripping the old black finish off and preparing for a new coat. Once the black finish was removed it shows a nice sycamore border with contrast to the rosewood.

Replacing pads and leather grommets. Also, replacing some crude springs that don’t work well . Seth

It worked well until I tried to solder a tab secure onto the wheel that holds the wire in place while bending and I melted part of the reel. It’s apparently made from some super soft metal so I’m making another one. I’ll repost when I start the new one.

Thanks much. To be honest I ,“did a good job of”, reading back through this forum looking for others within the range already asked about.

48 English, metal ends, solid metal keys, 6 fold bellows, and has valves on both sides that I’m told are “bowing valves.” serial number 33, 598 It was likely made in 1895-1896 I found a patent sticker inside for the valves? See photos.

Left- Brass Right- Steel The reed bodies or shoes are usually brass on both but the tongue is different.

Dowright, any idea on the English I posted on Friday, 4 posts up? Cheers, Seth

I just picked up a 48 English, metal ends, solid metal keys, 6 fold bellows, and has valves on both sides that I’m told are “bowing valves.” serial number 33, 598

Folded from one solid sheet with the angles cut out on the bandsaw similar to how Tedrow shows on his website tutorial.

It’s the glue. They were super stiff before I even took the set apart and after watching Alex Holdens photo tutorial I used cards only and switched to hide glue and the #2 bellows open up and close very well. Probably is too late to run. I was passed the workshop of a concertina maker who passed away several years ago, plus It gives me something to take the monotony away from 20 years of bagpipe making.

All 17 frame sizes used on my 2 different 20 button Lachenal’s. The only thing I’m not sure about is the taper of the reeds body. It’s said to be 4 degrees traditionally but my milking jig from Herald Herrington cuts at a 5 degree angle so I’m listing them like that for water-jet cutting. I can always reduce the angle by filing but can’t go the other way. the other thing is the screw size. I’m going with 1-72 (approx 1.8mm) which is slightly larger than what is on the Lachenal which was 1.6mm. Seth this could help someone else as I couldn’t find any information like this online when I was looking. I do plan to measure the steel tongues next when there is time. Seth

Machined the end down and it was hollow to a point so I’m going to drill out the end and add a rod the size of the mandrel I want to use for springs. If the part it came with doesn’t work I can make an endless number of mandrels as the gear comes off and is a simple D section attachment with a wire ring clamp.

I saw a video of Tedrow winding springs with what I immediately recognized as an old movie industry film reel winder. I came across this looking for ideas for winders and knew I had one of these in the shop. The brand I have is a Craig’s Rewind and I’m going to post my progress making the winder here. I started by taking the thing apart and cleaning it. I found it buried in the woods years ago and it was full of dirt. Next the mandrel will have to be modified or replaced depending on what is under the cap when I turn it off on the lathe.

Makes sense why I’m getting exact measures on frames for Lachenal #79,001 & 197,041. Seth

Same guy, althouh mostly only Swedish Bagpipes and Scottish smallpipes as of the last 5 years or so, with the rare, Borderpipe, Binoou koz or Bechonett. actually about to start on a Northumbrian Smallpipe 7 keys in F+20 soon. I have plenty to do but when one area Ian slow I shift to another to keep my shop busy. seth

The thing that’s I’m pondering is the width of the reed tongue slot that the reed freely swings in. The smallest seem to be around 2mm, then move up to 2.2mm for the middle length ones and on to 2.5mm for the longer bass reeds. Were these stamped or machined with various size slot widths or were they filed. I guess I can try a set and go back and make changes if needed. I was thinking of having all the reeds slots cut to 2mm but that would mean a lot of filing if the majority of them will need to be opened up . Cheers, Seth

There were some reed blanks among all the accordion reeds which look to be made by accordion makers with the single rivet hole and no venting on the bottom. I’m going to compare them to the Lachenal reeds.

Second bellows.

Thank you Dana, I’ve been passed the workshop of the late Harold Herrington so I have a really good head start if I were to build all these jigs and stuff myself. Interestingly I have some letters and emails of his and he mentions you. I appreciate you taking the time to really to my post. Cheers, Seth Hamon ~ Texas Here is my first one as well as bellows #2 which are a huge improvement on the super stiff #1 due to switching from PVA to Hide glue.