Rod Pearce

Gary Thanks for your suggestion. Unfortunately I don';t have the text to hand as it was ruined prior to renovation. I am going from memory and what I can see from pictures on the internet, If I can find one with enough numbers and definition I will try your suggestion. Regards Rod

Thanks Mike. I can't find Lisong Pro either but....................... How about this one? Clarendon Light BT. Wikipedia says it was created in 1845, so would have been around when the instruments were being made. I prefer it to my previous choice 1234567890 Clarendon Light BT

Don Thanks for your reply..I have looked at the Caslon typeface, and I don't think it is that as the numbers don't look rounded enough. I have tried some examples using MS Word and have come up with a few that seem to fit pretty well. My favourite is Sans Serif, so I think I will go with that. 196655 Times New Roman 196655 MS Sans Serif 196655 Franklin Gothic medium 196655 Century

Does anyone know the typeface /' size used by Lachenal for their later instruments, specifically the instrument number label? IT looks a bit like Times New Roman, but the tails on the round numbers aren't rounded enough I need to recreate the label which in not salvageable. The instrument serial number is 199655. Thanks in anticipation Rod

It has been a few months since I last posted progress on this renovation. The concertina is now back together as a working instrument. I have had to reglue all the frames and action / pad boxes which had all fallen apart due to damp. I have also made a new bellows as the old one was also ruined. OK, it isn't perfect as some of the sides don't quite line up but it all seems to work well enough. The pads, springs, lever arms and valves are all new. I have re-polished in blonde French polish to bring out the grain I still need to do a fine tune. I am quite pleased with how it has turned out given the wreck I started with. I won't be selling it as it is the first 30 key instrument I have had, and I intend to learn on it. Thanks to all contributions to this and other related threads, there were several points on the journey where I felt it was a hopeless cause but you helped through them. I will leave you with a picture of how it looks now. Best regards Rod ☺️

See separate thread Wanted - some reed plates for an old German concertina.

As I read the thread, it was started by Lesley H, so surely JoachimDelp is as entitled as anyone else to answer it. Or have I misunderstood?

Barry Try ringing him. This is an extract from his Contact me page By telephone – from 10.00am – 6.00pm – 01650511888 (Sat and Sun I may be out – do leave a message)

All back together and drying nicely. I have fitted the action boxes to check the screw alignment. Its not perfect but they do fit. Thanks to all for your help. Rod

Frank Thanks for the advice. One of the frames was in pieces and I have begun its re-assembly ,I am finding the glue starts to go off too quickly to put all the pieces together in one go, I have assembled them as three sections using a template to get the correct angle, Then I will put the three pieces together to create the full frame, much as you advise using the reed pan and bands. I am measuring the distance between screw holes to try to match the action box screws. The other frame should be more straightforward as it is still intact.

Thanks Milesy The only glue in evidence is hide glue, and that is what I am using. There are traces of this around the corner blocks. I have taken photos of everything and marked the frame sides so I know where everything goes.

Thanks, Alex

I am currently part way through renovating a 30 key Anglo that has suffered from prolonged storage in a damp place. Work on rebuilding the action boxes and fronts is nearing completion. My next job is to recover the bellows frames as the bellows needs replacing. Unfortunately, as with the rest of the woodwork, the damp has got in to the frame joints. The loints, reinforcing shims / biscuits? and blocks are all loose. There is no sign of glue in the joints themselves, only the blocks. There are traces of white mould in the joints. Can anyone advise if the joints would originally have been glued, or would they have relied on a good fitting shim and the glued block. I had assumed I would need to re-glue all components to make a sound joint, but I just want to make sure. Thanks for any thoughts. Have a Happy New Year! Rod

Jake Thank you for the tip. I have just taken delivery of 30 'new' brass levers courtesy of Steve, so I can replace all levers and know they are all of the best standard. Steve was able to supply them from unused Lachenal stock. Regards Rod

Dave Thanks for your reply. I'm not sure what the difference is between staple and aperture. The pivot is like a solid piece of metal (brass?) with a slot cut through it - as in the eye of a needle. They all seem in good condition. The arms seem to move freely in all of them, so hopefully they do not need to be replaced. Frank Thanks for that. If all else fails I will look into your suggestions. I didn't think of using brass tubing! 😊 Jake Thanks for your suggestion. Didn't think of that either! 😊 Thank you all for taking the time to reply. Rod

Mike I have 12 arms that are corroded, but as some are short and some long I can salvage some of the long ones to satisfy the short ones. I will send you a pm with the 6 sizes I need to replace.

The 30 key Lachenal anglo I am renovating has a number of lever arms where the pad ends have rusted away to nothing - the pads were only held on by the rust. So they are too short to re-use. The arms are flat profile, 1mm by 2.5mm going through a slot in the post. Do you think it would be possible to lengthen lhem by soldering some wire of the correct profile to the end? If so. does anyone know a source for such wire? Or remake them, from wire or plate? Has anyone ever done this? Regards Rod

Alex, Theo Thank you. I have ordered some Titebond III as the technical blurb says it has a longer open time. I also found references to Titebond Cold Press for Veneer Rod

Peter Thanks, much appreciated. I am a bit concerned that if I don't separate the laminates I will not be able to get glue to all surfaces that need it. I do have the end screws and holes that should enable me to line the two layers up before glueing. Second thoughts about using hide glue though - I'm not sure it will stay workable for long enough. Paul Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated. Rod

Paul The reeds are are in reasonable condition, surprisingly! Yes, there is a small amount of rust on most of them, and some of the inner reeds have verdigris on the frames, but I;m sure they will be OK. Peter That is encouraging. My plan is to do something similar, using either hide glue or PVA, depending on what has been used already. I will attempt to separate the two pieces, then glue and clamp between two boards while the glue goes off. Thanks for your feedback Rod

I am embarking on a major renovation of this instrument, which is effectively in pieces due to damp (it would appear, due to the presence of white mould, verdegris and rust). First job is to separate everything, clean it up a label it so I know where it goes. I have just managed to separate the Right front from the rest of its action box. Removing the 2 screws from the front was VERY difficult due to rust, and I did have to damage the woodwork a little to get them out Hopefully I can rescue the lever arms if I can remove the rust, All pads and valves need to be replaced, but the springs appear to be in reasonable condition. I will probably make new one anyway. All the wood is in pieces and needs a rebuild. I do have a question about the front. It is not solid wood, but a laminate of two pieces - rosewood by the look of it. They have separated and warped a little. (see photos attached) Once I have cleaned them up, do you think they would successfully glue back together, or should I replace them? I assume the Left front will be the same. Best regards Rod

Yes and no. I knew it needed work, but I did not expect it to be quite so extensive. It will keep me busy, though,

I have just taken delivery of this instrument. It is in a sorry state. It has obviously been kept in a damp environment as all the card and papers have parted company, and most of the Action box woodwork needs to be re-glued. As I was removing one of the ends to check the serial number it all fell apart! I have my work cut out to rebuild it. The intention is to keep it as my first 30 button instrument, so it would be nice to know something about it if possible Thanks Rod

Very comprehensive - lots to read and digest! Thank you all 😀

Thanks. I'll put it on the list