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Rod Pearce

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Posts posted by Rod Pearce

  1. To post an image, open the reply box, and drag your image to it by left-clicking on it in the folder it is stored in without taking your finger off, and let go of the mouse button to drop it in the message. Or use the .Choose files. link on the screen.


    Hope this makes sense.

  2. Mike


    I bought this bushing felt, sold by the Piano Accessory Shop,  I went for the 0.85mm thickness.




    Currently priced on their website for £15.95£17.95


    Strip of Red Bushing Cloth for  for flanges and key bushing in grand and upright pianos

    • Colour:  Red
    • Size of set:  75 mm X 915 mm

    Thickness and Application:

    • 0.8mm – Flange
    • 1.00mm – Flange
    • 1.3mm – Flange/ Key
    • 1.5mm – Key
    • 1.8mm – Key






  3. Am I missing something here?


    In my experience the screw that holds the thumbstrap in place on an English locates inside a wooden pillar between the end and the action board. So I would have expected that to have failed and either need to be removed / replaced, or plugged.


    If the pillar is still glued to the action board, I would fashion a thin plug from something like a cocktail stick and glue it into the hole in the pillar.The thumbstrap screw would them fit snugly inside again.


    If the pillar itself has failed replace it or re-glue it.

  4. 5 hours ago, Clive Thorne said:

    Would it be worth getting it re-reeded, or would it be best just to bin it and go straight to brass or aluminium shoes?




    I think the instrument deserves a chance, so I am intending to rebuild it. All the pieces are there, if I can remove the rusted screws from the ends!


    I believe some of the reeds can be saved so I intend to reuse them if possible, but I will need to find a number of replacements, brass this time! 


    • Like 1
  5. Stephen


    In addition to my original post, the description of 189665 you have is correct - spindle cut, 5 fold bellows. If by 'full' you mean solid ends. that would also appear to be correct.


    I attach some pictures of the ends and bellows in the condition I received the instrument. The bellows were too far gone and have since been discarded.


    I have almost finished de-rusting the reeds - about 7 or 8 have tongues that are rusted through or have already broken and most of the frames have been pitted by the rust. Its too early to say how many can be saved for re-use, but I would guess less than half.


    Good luck with your exercise.


    Best regards






  6. On 3/11/2022 at 7:46 PM, Rod Pearce said:

    Alex, Clive


    Thank you. I have ordered some Evapo Rust and will see how that goes




    The Evapo Rust has been delivered and I have tried it on the first reed.


    Initially, as per the instructions, I fully immersed the reed in the liquid and left it for about an hour. I took it out and gave it a quick clean with a rag. The surface rust came off very easily but the heavy corrosion was still solid. So I put it back in the liquid and left it for the 24 hours as per instructions. This time I scraped the surfaces with a fine blade and removed the majority of the rust. Then I used some very fine wet and dry all over, even in the slot and tongue.


    Afterwards I tried getting a note from the reed by sucking it and after a bit of adjustment it sounded, albeit somewhat muted.😀


    I am pleasantly surprised at how well the Evapo Rust has worked, but I am not convinced the reed is viable given the amount of rust damage there was. I would think lightly rusted reeds would make a much better recovery.


    59 reeds to go - some worse, some better😵


    See before and after pictures attached







  7. David, Paul


    Thank you for the feedback.


    I have managed to extract the reed pans from the ends, and the reeds on the outer sides are just as bad (not looking forward to the lever arms, but I do have some spares of those).


    I have had a go at one reed using very fine wet and dry paper. It has come up surprising well and I can even get a muted note from it. Unfortunately a lot of the other reeds are in a worse condition. Once I have removed them from the pans (no mean feat by the look of it) I am considering soaking them in a wet solution (white vinegar, bicarbonate of soda paste) to loosen before using some steel wool or similar abrasive that I have to hand. If that doesn't work I will buy a fibreglass pen and try that.


    This was never a good quality instrument by the look of it, so it will never be a 'silk purse'. But if I can get it back to a playable standard without spending lots of money it will be worthwhile.




  8. I have just been passed a recently acquired instrument for possible renovation. It is effectively a complete rebuild - bellows beyond repair, broken and cracked reed pans and ends, etc. It has obviously been kept in a damp environment as the reeds themselves are heavily rusted. Serial number is 189665.


    The reed frames themselves are also rusted - this is a surprise to me as I didn't realise that the frames themselves can be made from steel,  as I have only seen brass frames to date. I can only see the inner reeds because the action box screws are also heavily rusted (bellows have been removed).


    I am reasonably comfortable with the rebuild itself. However the reeds are a different story (pictures attached).


    Given the amount of rusting, are they worth trying to save? If so, what would be the best approach to minimise long term damege?


    I would appreciate your advice.






  9. Contact Mark Lloyd-Adey of Concertina Spares




    Try contacting him by phone first, as he doesn't always get to his email. This is from his 'Contact Me' page

    Contact me


    Either by email: mark@concertina-spares.com

    By telephone – from 10.00am – 6.00pm – 01650511888   (Sat and Sun I may be out – do leave a message)

    By post – Mark Lloyd-Adey. Bodfan, Cemmaes,  Machynlleth, Powys, SY20 9PR.





  10. I have just had a brief look at the Pano Tuner website, and the display only seems to show the note value and frequency (eg A and 440.0 hz). Other tuners also show how many cents the note being sounded  is above or below the required pitch

    I believe this is what Alex is referring to, and it seems cents is not available on that tuner.

    Bill the farmer tuner does appear to show cents, so I suggest you use that one if you are familiar with it.

    When you sound the note it will show you what note it is nearest to and how many cents above or below that note it is. You are looking to get it to as near as 0 cents as possible,


    • Sound the reed
    • Look at what the tuner says the note is and how far above/below pitch it is in cents.
    • Tune the reed up or down and re-sound  until you get as near as you can to 0 cents.


    Does this make sense?




  11. John


    Try Googling 'Concertina Plans', I got back this list of threads from the forum. I don't think they will work as threads as I just cut and pasted them from the Google search results.


    Maybe there are some useful tips in them?



    Construction plans/drawings? - CONCERTINA.net -

    https://www.concertina.net › forums › 10871-constructi...

    18 Feb 2010 — ... able to find any anglo construction plans so I can build my own. ... Traditionally-built concertinas use individual concertina reeds ...

    Where To Buy Plans And Reeds For Concertina

    16 Jul 2007

    Make your own! - Instrument Construction & Repair

    4 Apr 2010

    Concertina Building - Instrument Construction & Repair

    3 Aug 2005

    Instrument Plans For The Builder? - CONCERTINA.net

    22 Jun 2005

    More results from www.concertina.net




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