Jump to content

rcr27

Members
  • Posts

    157
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by rcr27

  1. 17 minutes ago, d.elliott said:

    I have been doing work with C A Cornish, testing and trialling different leathers as as one type moves out of availability. balancing stiffness, cut direction and thicknesses. Talk to Lynda Cornish she is most knowledgeable, say Hello from me. 

     

    Dave

    Thanks I will, I’d imagine they have pad material too. 

  2. 2 minutes ago, Sprunghub said:

    I have.....but......there is a bit of a 'tale' to that,  I have a pal who lives pt time / works in the States and who I thought it would be good to get to bring them home with him to save me the postage which (a) it did and (b) he did.....except he was there "weeks" after he got it, because it was the run up to Xmas.  I should have just paid for letter post. 

     

    As for quality, I would say, it is pretty "exemplary".   

     

    Their ordering process is 'quaint' ( which suits me ) in a world of instant, high tech "on-line" shops, Darlene takes your order via an email and then sends an invoice back for you to pay once they have put it up.  You do still need to ascertain the 'direction' of the grain/stretch in the leather, as you would anyway.  It may be the along the 'longer' or shorter length.  You can not take it for granted that it is longways.

     

     

     

    Oh I see, that kinda lets me down a bit. I would have bought all my valves from concertina-spares.com but unfortunately it takes too long as Mark Adey is I’ll I think. I ordered some spares in January and still haven’t received it, hence I’m forced to look elsewhere and make my own materials. I have 4 concertinas which need new pads & valves and want to get them done asap, but I don’t want to risk and use cheap material either. Thanks anyway.

  3. 19 minutes ago, Mike Acott said:

    If the leather used is curling under gravity , the concertina s being kept in the wrong plane . When at rest the valves should be in the vertical position.

    Regards.

    Mike

    Yes I’m aware, but when I’m replacing the valves on the chamber side, the valves on the opposite will start to curl, so it has to be a problem of valve material in this case. My concertina is a Wheatstone English that comes in its original leather hard case.

  4. 1 hour ago, Sprunghub said:

    On advice from a successful Uk artisan, I used Columbia Organ's Leathers.  I bought the H, XH & Valve in their 12" x 6" approx panels.  The XH & Valve were most useful......you could utilise the H for pad facing.  It is excellent, they are very good to deal with.  There is enough leather in their panel's to do several instruments.  A concern that the 'panels'  might be lower quality "off-cuts" was not evidenced.  It just appears to be a sensible volume for non-pro's and smaller instruments. 

     

    It was for a Jeffries who were obviously innovators because they used straight lines!  to that end I used a Rotary cutter and ruler as opposed to worrying about long oval's with reducing width.

     

     

    That looks great, I need to make pads too. As long as the leather is good quality and doesn’t curl, it will do. Have you ordered from them? I see that they are located in the US, I wonder how long the delivery takes.

  5. 1 hour ago, Don Taylor said:

    How do you cut valve leathers?

     

     Do you have to make a set of dies or can scissors and knives do the job?

    I used small sharp scissors. I removed the original valves (one at a time), and outlined it’s shape with a pen on the leather hide (hairy side), and then gently cut it. My other concertinas which are already restored (not by me) have slightly wider valves, but I preferred to keep the same width and length as the original valves. 

  6. Hi, anyone in the UK knows any good leather supplier or website where I can find the right leather for concertina valves? I bought a sheep hide from ebay to cut and replace the valves myself, but they curl up too easily. I trimmed them to the same size and chose the same thickness as the original ones, but they tend to curl rapidly just with gravity. I’m guessing it’s a matter of stiffness and flexibility? It’s the first time I’m cutting them myself, if anyone has found the right leather I’d appreciate a bit of help. Thanks.

  7. I see, thanks for the information. It does makes sense because the bushing board is paitend with gold paint on the other side and yes definitely a poor work done. As for the bellows, do you think it will be better a fit new set of bellows or just work on this one? They air airtight but too thick

  8. I have bought  this concertina last week from ebay and I’m not sure whether it’s a Lachenal or Wheatstone, or has parts from both? The serial number that I see inside is 19059. I would imagine the ends have been replaced at some point. It has got mainly steel reeds with some brass replacements, and it plays decently well to say it’s extremely dusty inside since it has been stored for about 70 years or so. At first I thought it was a Lachenal as the 3 screws in the finger rest are not perfectly in line just like my other Lachenals, but then it has riveted levers, which I think was unique to most Wheatstones? 

     

    For some reason the manufacturer name has been peeled off from the reed pan. 

     

    Any help I’d really appreciate it. 

    Thanks

     

     

    B69CE9B1-9C47-4FE8-B7A6-5C37F6B14B2A.jpeg

    D786FD54-2E6C-4645-A100-04D3B7422568.jpeg

    185F336A-ABDF-401A-AD30-AE053D7E7397.jpeg

    F032EDBC-DE4D-49B2-9641-05473A32DD4E.jpeg

    82A75B7A-0EE6-4662-BB80-A41766365239.jpeg

  9. 18 minutes ago, Alex West said:

    I spoke with Mark just after the New Year about an order I'd placed a while ago.  He was back in action and delivered it promptly so he's recovering although you might have to be patient

    Thanks for letting us know, I placed an order a month ago and emailed him today but haven’t received a reply yet. Does he work on his own? It would be great if someone could work along with him while he is off. 

  10. I have just acquired my first duet concertina, a Lachenal Maccann 63 key edeophone and it has got this stamp inside: “J. Gale importer or concertinas & accordions”, wondering if anyone knows anything about it? I can’t find any information about them. The serial number is 3100, would that be early 1900s? I got told this concertina came over from Italy after the war. Interestingly the reeds are tuned to concert pitch (with slight deviations), although the valves are old.

     

    Thanks in advance

     

     

    45A82292-64DC-4E83-A172-78031A50233D.jpeg

  11. Unlucky, 2 edeophones duet 63 keys got sold recently on ebay uk, I got one of them but I don’t plan to sell it, however keep an eye on ebay and auction houses. Duets are getting so popular nowadays which is good. The big Æolas are quite common as well. You might wanna contact the dealers, they should have something. 

  12. Done it! I got away with a kitchen knife to slide through. My god what a chaos that was! I wonder why would people do this...  But the good thing is that it kept the reeds clean and dust-free. It has definitely been touched by someone who is not into cocertinas.

     

     

    C832B92A-B108-4B4C-8FAF-CDE95E8457CF.jpeg

  13. 34 minutes ago, Mike Jones said:

    . Is there any way of sliding a thin blade between the reed pan and the frame while you are trying to release the glue to act as a lever to separate the sections?

    Yes I have slid a thin blade and hopefully the glue is not as strong, but I can only reach few centimetres with the blade; there is also glue around the circle in the middle.

     

    Thanks for your recommendation, I will try with water first and see what happens. The glue is pretty dry.  I might have to remove the reeds first.

     

     

  14. Hi everyone, I have just received a Lachenal Anglo Concertina that came all way from Finland, and I’m having a big trouble with it: The reed pan is literally glued to the pad board and I can’t access the chamber side. Someone has put some sort of white glue to the chamois leather of the chamber walls and now it’s stuck to the pad board. On the other ends I can’t even remove the reed pan from the bellows...

    Has anyone ever come across this problem? I was thinking about using some sort of lubricant but I’m afraid this could affect the wood or the reeds.

     

    I would really appreciate some help.

     

    Thanks

    Roger

     

     

    D50B19D3-AEC7-4A7E-B894-EC4BD7810E9C.jpeg

    895F4F0E-E505-4EC5-BBA9-FCC8411D070F.jpeg

  15. Hi I’m selling a Lachenal tutor model that I bought a couple of months ago from eBay. Fully restored by Nigel Sture in 2014 including a 6 fold bellows and steel reeds. I finished it up with the key hole bushings. Great condition inside out and tuned to concert pitch. The serial number is 56906, likely from the 20’s? Correct me if I’m wrong.

     

    The price is £800, but will consider reasonable offers. Can ship within the UK.

     

    Also advertised it on ebay (more photos in there) but I would much rather sell it through this forum and contribute a small percentage than loosing money on ebay fees. 

     

    Thanks 

     

     

    2735F5AC-FB28-45C7-8CAA-B83737DF357F.jpeg

    34830BC5-4A84-4DDC-88F6-88E208D4C94E.jpeg

    296A899D-0EFA-4FAC-A260-0EA008CD3E5C.jpeg

×
×
  • Create New...