rcr27

I bought it. Surprisingly there were no import costs or any sort of fees, at all.

I bid on it but didn’t expect it to go that high considering it was in Sweden - you’ve bought it at a fair price, would probably be worth 1000-2000 kr more than the hammer price but not much more considering the restoration costs (a lot).

I would recommend DHL, they operate in Bolivia, I don’t know if UPS does. I sent an accordion to Brazil back in January through Parcelforce and it took 3 months to arrive, only to fail the customs clearance (apparently due to insufficient item description...) and now it’s getting returned, and still waiting. I sent an accordion to Chile through DHL about 2 weeks ago and it’s already there. I booked the shipment via parcelhero, the parcel gets sent to a sorting centre here in England so you don’t need to fill any customs invoice papers, they do it for you. I’m not sure about CITES and all the wood-related restrictions.

This concertina is no longer for sale

Would you say is sheepskin leather? Are the card shims glued to the pillars?

Interesting, in my case the small fretwork screw protrudes too far through the action board and is sticking out a little bit. I’d be great if you could open it up and post a photo of the back of the fretwork. Was the red net common on Anglos from this period? I might as well leave it there but it does look a bit odd. When I received (in original condition), the right side was significantly dustier than the left side.

I see, I’ve been told that if the baffles are not replaced, there is a gap as thick as the leather, so the support pillar is not touching the end and therefore not doing what it is there for. And also to prevent dust obviously as the red net that is fitted right now doesn’t help.

I have a Rosewood Lachenal Anglo No. 178102 (not sure if the last number is 2, 3 or 8.) It doesn’t have leather baffles but it has a red netting instead, don’t know if this is original. Anyway, I want to replace this with leather baffles, my question is what type of leather was/is used for this? Was it originally red for the anglos of this period? (My concertina is the same model as the photo below)

Best thing to do as a beginner is to choose a cheap 20 key lachenal (or other make) in good original condition that only needs the basic renovation (repad, revalve and retune) so that if anything goes wrong, you’re not ruining what could be a potentially good player.

Dowright, would a Lachenal Anglo No. 172103 date of 1891 approximately?

No, not at all, it was just a light reflection.

This?

SOLD

Now sold Selling a Lachenal C/G 30-key rosewood Lachenal that I bought as a restoration project but due to the lack of time that I have right now it has to go. The serial number is 160470. It’s in good original condition (unrestored) and shouldn’t be a difficult task to restore because it hasn’t been messed with before, all the original parts are there. It has been stored in its wooden case unplayed for a long time but it’s still playable. The asking price is £1000 or very nearest offer. Will also be advertised on ebay, but I’d much rather sell through this forum and make a small donation. Shipping is available at £20 within the UK. For more information please message me. Thanks

Thanks that sounds more accurate.

Thanks, all the buttons have a similar pressure (apart from one or two) but I’d like to make sure they’re all even.

Thanks, sounds easy, didn’t think about that.

What device/gauge is recommended to check the key pressure? (and how?) How should any adjustments be made? My springs (brass I believe) are all in good condition but one particular key has a significantly lower pressure than the others. It’s a Lachenal non-riveted action. Thanks in advance Roger

Thanks for the tips, it makes sense however wouldn’t the glue add a little extra height once dry? Also, how thick does the bar (bending tool) has to be? Would a stainless steel ruler work?

Ok I get it now, thanks very much! yes I saw the diagram on the manual but I didn’t quite understand it; it makes sense now. Its time to find a flat steel bar now..

Would anyone kindly share a photo of their bending tool used to bend the lever arms in order to adjust key height, and how exactly is it used? Also, what’s optimum key height above the action plate (when released) for an anglo concertina?

Mere coincidence that 2 55-key crane duets popped up almost at the same time; I was just searching information about the model and found this.

Don’t know the seller but I know that this particular concertina (389) was sold unrestored back in 2011: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/early-lachenal-cranes-duet-concertina-161598198 Browsing on the internet I found that the seller is a member of this forum though he hasn’t been active since November And he also advertised it on ebay back in November 2016: https://picclick.co.uk/LACHENAL-CRANE-DUET-CONCERTINA-No-389-55-232140867616.html and this other website: https://abyhom.co.uk/details/?id=22441&cate=music I just acquired the exact same 55-key new model very recently (though mine is labelled “The Triumph” No.3990 and is unrestored) and is an absolute joy of an instrument.

Does this work for steel reeds too?

Last week I received my spares that I ordered back in January