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rcr27

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Posts posted by rcr27

  1. 6 hours ago, Sprunghub said:

    RCR, pretty good detective work if you were looking at the previous owner and party who had the restoration work carried out at their behest, but not the current one, hence I do not live ( or have ever lived in Spalding ) and have not advertised it previously and that is not my 'thread' ?.  

     

    A little knowledge as they say....

     

    Mere coincidence that 2 55-key crane duets popped up almost at the same time; I was just searching information about the model and found this. 

     

  2. Don’t know the seller but I know that this particular concertina (389) was sold unrestored back in 2011: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/early-lachenal-cranes-duet-concertina-161598198

     

    Browsing on the internet I found that the seller is a member of this forum though he hasn’t been active since November 

     And he also advertised it on ebay back in November 2016: https://picclick.co.uk/LACHENAL-CRANE-DUET-CONCERTINA-No-389-55-232140867616.html

    and this other website: https://abyhom.co.uk/details/?id=22441&cate=music 

     

    I just acquired the exact same 55-key new model very recently (though mine is labelled “The Triumph” No.3990 and is unrestored) and is an absolute joy of an instrument. 

  3. It’s probably that the punch is not sharp enough, any ideas on how to sharpen it? Only few of my pads have come out well round, the rest tend to delaminate on the edges. I bought some pads from ebay but they are too big for my concertina hence I’m trying to make my own. I found that the card used on these is a lot stronger than the card I’m using, could that be the problem as well? 

     

  4. On 4/6/2020 at 1:21 PM, Theo said:

     

    I use 600g art paper.

     

    Where can I find one like that online? Is there any on ebay? I can never get a perfect circle with the card that I’m using... I use a wad punch and a steel mallet, and punch against wood. The felt and the leather come out well in shape but the card just looks horrible on the edges. 

     

  5. 24 minutes ago, alex_holden said:

     

    I have the same leather multitool thingy. I had to sharpen the edger with a diamond needle file and smooth the edge of the creaser but it works well enough.

     

    I brand the straps (unless the client requests a plain one) with a stamp that I engraved from brass on the CNC mill. If you want to have one professionally made, Chalco Stamp & Die are very good.

    Great thank you, and what knife or scalpel do you use to cut the strap out of the leather with such precision?

  6. 19 minutes ago, alex_holden said:

    I currently use this leather for my straps.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-LONG-BLACK-2-2-4mm-THICK-BRIDLE-BUTT-LEATHER-STRAP-VEG-TAN-VARIOUS-WIDTH/191852269990

     

    It helps with comfort if you round over the edges; there is a special 'leather edging tool' for this purpose or you can just use sandpaper. You can make them look more professional by indenting a line a short distance in from the edge; again there's a special tool for this called a 'creasing iron', or you can make do with something like a blunt knife.

    Thank you, do you cut the leather with a scalpel or do you use some special knife/leather cutter? I have bought the creaser/groover tool to crease the edges on my english thumb straps: https://www.ebay.com/itm/7PCS-Leather-Craft-Tool-Edge-Stitching-Groover-Creaser-Beveller-Punch-Sewing-Set/401912998301?pageci=b9abfa2b-c873-43d8-a83c-52d3422a727d I’m guessing that’s the one. I’ve seen that you stamped your name on your straps, what tool did you use for that? 

  7. 29 minutes ago, Frank Edgley said:

    Tooling leather is used. It is a tough cow hide. It will need to be dyed and a finish applied. Thicker leather certainly last longer, but is stiff and not comfortable. Thinner leather is much more comfortable, and lasts long enough. I have been playing my Heritage concertina for 5 or 6 years and have years to go before they are worn out, and they are very comfortable, allowing for easy movement of the hands. If you want to get a bit fancier, there are tools you can get from Tandy leather which will allow you to customise your leather. Just dampen the leather before tooling and let dry before dying and finishing. Another thing..... you must determine the grain of the leather. One direction stretches more than the other. If you cut the leather going the wrong direction your straps will stretch.

    Thank you! By the way, is the thickness the same for all 3? (Anglo english and duet)

  8. 6 minutes ago, Rod Pearce said:

    Have you thought about the kit available from Mark LLoyd-Adey at Concertina spares?

    I have ordered a full set of spares from my anglo from Mark back in January, unfortunately I have not yet received them. I emailed him 2 or 3 twice but still no reply whatsoever... 

  9. 35 minutes ago, scoopet said:

    Thanks rcr......is that not a tenor treble?

    No idea as I don’t own it and neither have I owned a tenor treble or baritone before so I couldn’t tell from the photo (All I know is that they are big!). I guess judging by the size of it it must have large reeds, so perhaps a baritone?. I own an Edeophone duet 63 key which is obviously bigger than the standard Edeophone English size and has very low notes on the left side (can’t remember what the lowest notes are), wouldn’t that fit into the tenor treble/baritone range? It’s known that Lachenal made a LOT more concertinas than Wheatstone,  so no reason to think why they wouldn’t experiment with different octave ranges. 

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