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Posts posted by rcr27

  1. It’s probably that the punch is not sharp enough, any ideas on how to sharpen it? Only few of my pads have come out well round, the rest tend to delaminate on the edges. I bought some pads from ebay but they are too big for my concertina hence I’m trying to make my own. I found that the card used on these is a lot stronger than the card I’m using, could that be the problem as well? 


  2. On 4/6/2020 at 1:21 PM, Theo said:


    I use 600g art paper.


    Where can I find one like that online? Is there any on ebay? I can never get a perfect circle with the card that I’m using... I use a wad punch and a steel mallet, and punch against wood. The felt and the leather come out well in shape but the card just looks horrible on the edges. 


  3. 24 minutes ago, alex_holden said:


    I have the same leather multitool thingy. I had to sharpen the edger with a diamond needle file and smooth the edge of the creaser but it works well enough.


    I brand the straps (unless the client requests a plain one) with a stamp that I engraved from brass on the CNC mill. If you want to have one professionally made, Chalco Stamp & Die are very good.

    Great thank you, and what knife or scalpel do you use to cut the strap out of the leather with such precision?

  4. 19 minutes ago, alex_holden said:

    I currently use this leather for my straps.



    It helps with comfort if you round over the edges; there is a special 'leather edging tool' for this purpose or you can just use sandpaper. You can make them look more professional by indenting a line a short distance in from the edge; again there's a special tool for this called a 'creasing iron', or you can make do with something like a blunt knife.

    Thank you, do you cut the leather with a scalpel or do you use some special knife/leather cutter? I have bought the creaser/groover tool to crease the edges on my english thumb straps: https://www.ebay.com/itm/7PCS-Leather-Craft-Tool-Edge-Stitching-Groover-Creaser-Beveller-Punch-Sewing-Set/401912998301?pageci=b9abfa2b-c873-43d8-a83c-52d3422a727d I’m guessing that’s the one. I’ve seen that you stamped your name on your straps, what tool did you use for that? 

  5. 29 minutes ago, Frank Edgley said:

    Tooling leather is used. It is a tough cow hide. It will need to be dyed and a finish applied. Thicker leather certainly last longer, but is stiff and not comfortable. Thinner leather is much more comfortable, and lasts long enough. I have been playing my Heritage concertina for 5 or 6 years and have years to go before they are worn out, and they are very comfortable, allowing for easy movement of the hands. If you want to get a bit fancier, there are tools you can get from Tandy leather which will allow you to customise your leather. Just dampen the leather before tooling and let dry before dying and finishing. Another thing..... you must determine the grain of the leather. One direction stretches more than the other. If you cut the leather going the wrong direction your straps will stretch.

    Thank you! By the way, is the thickness the same for all 3? (Anglo english and duet)

  6. 6 minutes ago, Rod Pearce said:

    Have you thought about the kit available from Mark LLoyd-Adey at Concertina spares?

    I have ordered a full set of spares from my anglo from Mark back in January, unfortunately I have not yet received them. I emailed him 2 or 3 twice but still no reply whatsoever... 

  7. 35 minutes ago, scoopet said:

    Thanks rcr......is that not a tenor treble?

    No idea as I don’t own it and neither have I owned a tenor treble or baritone before so I couldn’t tell from the photo (All I know is that they are big!). I guess judging by the size of it it must have large reeds, so perhaps a baritone?. I own an Edeophone duet 63 key which is obviously bigger than the standard Edeophone English size and has very low notes on the left side (can’t remember what the lowest notes are), wouldn’t that fit into the tenor treble/baritone range? It’s known that Lachenal made a LOT more concertinas than Wheatstone,  so no reason to think why they wouldn’t experiment with different octave ranges. 

  8. 17 minutes ago, d.elliott said:

    I have been doing work with C A Cornish, testing and trialling different leathers as as one type moves out of availability. balancing stiffness, cut direction and thicknesses. Talk to Lynda Cornish she is most knowledgeable, say Hello from me. 



    Thanks I will, I’d imagine they have pad material too. 

  9. 2 minutes ago, Sprunghub said:

    I have.....but......there is a bit of a 'tale' to that,  I have a pal who lives pt time / works in the States and who I thought it would be good to get to bring them home with him to save me the postage which (a) it did and (b) he did.....except he was there "weeks" after he got it, because it was the run up to Xmas.  I should have just paid for letter post. 


    As for quality, I would say, it is pretty "exemplary".   


    Their ordering process is 'quaint' ( which suits me ) in a world of instant, high tech "on-line" shops, Darlene takes your order via an email and then sends an invoice back for you to pay once they have put it up.  You do still need to ascertain the 'direction' of the grain/stretch in the leather, as you would anyway.  It may be the along the 'longer' or shorter length.  You can not take it for granted that it is longways.




    Oh I see, that kinda lets me down a bit. I would have bought all my valves from concertina-spares.com but unfortunately it takes too long as Mark Adey is I’ll I think. I ordered some spares in January and still haven’t received it, hence I’m forced to look elsewhere and make my own materials. I have 4 concertinas which need new pads & valves and want to get them done asap, but I don’t want to risk and use cheap material either. Thanks anyway.

  10. 19 minutes ago, Mike Acott said:

    If the leather used is curling under gravity , the concertina s being kept in the wrong plane . When at rest the valves should be in the vertical position.



    Yes I’m aware, but when I’m replacing the valves on the chamber side, the valves on the opposite will start to curl, so it has to be a problem of valve material in this case. My concertina is a Wheatstone English that comes in its original leather hard case.

  11. 1 hour ago, Sprunghub said:

    On advice from a successful Uk artisan, I used Columbia Organ's Leathers.  I bought the H, XH & Valve in their 12" x 6" approx panels.  The XH & Valve were most useful......you could utilise the H for pad facing.  It is excellent, they are very good to deal with.  There is enough leather in their panel's to do several instruments.  A concern that the 'panels'  might be lower quality "off-cuts" was not evidenced.  It just appears to be a sensible volume for non-pro's and smaller instruments. 


    It was for a Jeffries who were obviously innovators because they used straight lines!  to that end I used a Rotary cutter and ruler as opposed to worrying about long oval's with reducing width.



    That looks great, I need to make pads too. As long as the leather is good quality and doesn’t curl, it will do. Have you ordered from them? I see that they are located in the US, I wonder how long the delivery takes.

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