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RogerT

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Posts posted by RogerT

  1. I'd try the solder first. It's not that far, from D to A, and you'll find it doesn’t need much solder, is a quick job (10 to 15 mins, if you've got the tools). And a tip..use an old file for the tuning..the solder clogs the teeth on a file and will ruin good files. You can then test the response, which may be good enough for your needs. Otherwise, if you find it's not quick enough for those fast reels of whatever, try to get a replacement reed. But there's no standard size (from my experience) even among Lachenals, so you're likely to need to do some 'fitting'. Easier with a shorter reed frame, not so viable if the frame is too long.

  2. On my 32 key CG Lachenal, the additional LH button, which is to the R of the LH middle row G/A is a F#/C#, which is a most useful combo. So that's one suggestion if you want something (IMO) worth having, and completes the reversals in D and G, except for a pull E.

  3. My advice is: don't overthink it. An Anglo is relatively easy to get a tune out of. A CG 30k Anglo has lots of reversals and is easy to play in common keys, esp DG, A, F, C etc, and has some great runs for ITD music. A 20k Anglo is a great way to try out this system.

    I personally find the EC  harder to play. . Is not as percussive as an Anglo, and, no one has mentioned this, has annoyingly crowded buttons (except on one or two models I've seen), so if you have biggish hands and or fingers, it's just horrible to play. Also it's not the most logical way to play, given the left right left right scale progression, but I guess you can get used to that. I'd ignore all the stuff about playing in many different keys, unless you read music and plan to spend hours (as I do) browsing music books and sight reading tunes to try them out.

  4. On 11/25/2024 at 6:23 PM, caj said:

    However, I still have Serial debug messages being printed after each note on message, which produces enough of a delay.  I guess I should replace them with a delayMicroseconds when I take them out.

    Sounds like a workaround. ;)

    BTW..fascinating thread. 
    A year or two ago someone was selling midified melodeons in the UK, but the s/w was seriously flaky, with errant notes sounding and odd behaviours (on my test rig, at least). I was never allowed to look at the code. This has piqued my interest. I don't particularly like midi instruments…but the underlying ideas and s/w are interesting (yeah, retired programmer here). 
    You can correct me but 'realtime' (i was told, for trading systems at least) is stuff that happens within 50ms.

  5. On the subject of Anglos: the Marcus is actually a nice instrument (with accordion reeds). I was very impressed when I played one. I've seriously considered ditching my 32key Lachenal for one. Also the mid to upper range McNeela ones are pretty good, with a fast action, aimed at the ITM market, where a fast responsive instrument is important. This goes against the grain a bit..given I repair these things for a living, but I'd get a new modern one any day over a vintage one. Old instruments are all very well, but can be a pain in the rear. And not only that, you sometimes have to listen v hard to tell the difference between trad reeds and accordion reeds (on the top end hybrid models). I'm going to get shouted down for saying this, I'm sure. My advice is not to get too hung up on an old vintage instrument, at least to start. A $1500 new instrument is good enough for most people. Check out the young Irish Anglo players on YT. They sound pretty good and many are playing modern hybrids. A vintage $$$  instrument doesn’t make you a better player.

    • Like 4
  6. Dave Elliot's thumbstrap design is a good place to start, though I think the template in the book isn't long enough and I lengthened it. I also made a couple of slatted wooden forms to squish the leather/fabric sandwich while it is gluing.,,and this ensures it is parallel and straight and of an exact and consistent width. Having said all that, making thumbstraps is a bit of a pain if you only do it occasionally, and expect to make a couple before you get it right. An alternative is to make thumbstraps from a single piece of thick (but soft) leather, thus avoiding the 'watch strap' design (folded, glued leather encasing bits of felt and cloth). You still need to glue them to the metal brackets (use hide glue), but it's a lot quicker and easier. I've done this a couple of times (at customer's request, not because I'm lazy) and quite like the result. 

    • Like 1
  7. To answer your original question, it'd be better to get a 30 key CG, the reason being that tutorial books and YT instructional videos are all for that instrument. Though you won't get an old (say) Lachenal for your budget, unless it is a wreck and you'll have to restore it.

    And..you really do need the extra row of accidentals. There are some very useful reversals on there.

    Avoid the Stag concertinas (even the more expensive one). They are pretty awful to play. The Rochelle is very playable in comparison and a good choice. The other place to look is at the entry level 30 key Anglos sold in Ireland (e,g, by McNeela). Because it's such a popular instrument there they all tend to be very playable. Or the Marcus (made in Wales), which is excellent for an accordion reeded 'tina. I've tried all these instruments by the way (and repaired them).

    As a supplemental answer, if you have a 20key Lachenal or Jones, which has the removeable reeds, the simplest and most effective 'mod' is to get hold of a matching C# reed and substitute the pull A in the middle of the LH G row. It works surprisingly well and it's how I've got my Jones. So I can knock out tunes in D.  The point here is that the G/A button on the G row is repeated on the top button of the LH D row, and (if you learn the Irish style …see the Bramich book) you use that key anyway and not the G row G/A button.

    Extra observation…you don't play up and down the rows on an Anglo, …you play across the rows. Some people do play up and down so this mod won't work if that's how you intend to play. Up and down players need a box in GD. 

     

     

     

  8. 16 hours ago, Clive Thorne said:

    Making your own bolts seems (to me) to be a lot of effort for very little (if any) tangible gain. If it were me I would convert everything to M2.5, probably stainless steel, even if it meant going to allen heads or cheese heads.

     

    As for the screws in the above above spost, should be easy enough to get from a serious ironmonger, or on line.

    Yes, this has been my approach. It's also possible to get m2.5 bolt/wood inserts.

  9. It might be worth getting the action on your Lachenal checked…and also work out what is not right about it (while you go a looking for that ideal 'tina…my advice…try first, so attend events where you can do this). My Lachenal 32 was truly awful…had terrible action …but I have made it pretty fast and playable with a *lot* of work…like bushing, adjusting spring tension, lowering buttons, fix spongy feel by sorting any tiny air leaks,  checking valve behaviour, checking and fixing reed response…that sort of thing. It can make a lot of difference to its playability.

    • Like 1
  10. Assuming it's a standard CG 'tina…

    1) get the standard layout for a CG anglo tina (somewhere on here or search Google.

    2) work out where those reed blocks go

    3) map buttons to the holes and therefore the block/reed chamber position

    4) result should be what you are looking for.

    5) if you have the reeds, ping them to work out the push/pull pitches

    6) this should then enable you to match the reeds to the blocks.

  11. I wasn't really asking for a diagnosis of the issues…yes there is a crack…i was just showing how it's possible to put the action box on so you see it working and diagnose all the issues, not necessarily a technique to everyone’s liking but all the same v useful on occasion. Yes I know about using a bright light etc and I don't always do it this way….I repair concertinas professionally so I've got a good grasp of how to go about it. It's really no extra effort to do this.

    • Like 1
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