BILL321

OK - MANY THANKS - BILL

OK - MANY THANKS - BILL

hi - apologies for posting - CHETTLE - in wrong section - my mistake I don't use the site regularly BILL

HI GEOFF - MANY THANKS - MUCH APPRECIATED - DID YOU RECEIVE THE PHOTOS I POSTED ?? BILL

HELLO GEOFFREY - MANY MANY THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY AND INFORMATIVE DETAILS RE THE 'CHETTLE CLAN' MY REASON FOR ENQUIRY CONCERNED DETAILS WHICH HAD BEEN WRITTEN INSIDE A NICKOLDS 32 BUTTON CONCERTINA HOPEFULLY YOU WILL BE ABLE TO SEE - IF THE PHOTOS COME THROUGH OK WITH THIS REPLY CERTAINLY THE NOTTINGHAM CONNECTION WOULD SEEM TO MATCH - AND THE DATE NEXT TO THE SIGNATURE I ONLY KNOW A LIMITED DETAILS REGARDING THE NICKOLDS MANUFACTURE PERIOD - JUST WHAT I HAVE SEEN ON THE INTERNET - SO IF YOU CAN GIVE ME ANY POINTERS TO FIND FURTHER INFO IT WOULD BE GRATEFULLY RECEIVED THANKS ONCE AGAIN - BILL JENKINS

Does anyone have knowledge of a concertina repairer named S. CHETTLE around 1860/70's period

that's good - many thanks GEOFF - regards BILL

OK - MANY THANKS WOLF

RECENTLY ACQUIRED A LACHENAL 48 BUTTON AND NOTICED THAT THE THE THUMB STRAP SCREWS FIX TO THE BODY OF THE INSTRUMENT VIA A BRASS THREADED PLATE - DOES THIS APPLY TO ALL OF THE LACHENALS OR DOES IT INDICATE A CERTAIN PERIOD OF THEIR CONSTRUCTION

hi DANIEL - many thanks for your link to the SEDGWICK GUIDE - very informative - where on earth did you manage to find it - because I was having no luck at all with my investigations and as you rightly say the tie in of keys follows a similar pattern thanks again - BILL

hi JOHN - thanks for your observations - I think you are correct about the background of the instrument - it's appearance is as you say "english inspired " and another piece of the "jigsaw" into it's history - regards - BILL

hi TAKAYUKI - thanks for that - yes the photo looks practically the same as mine - regards - BILL

hi DANIEL - thanks for your reply - you are correct with the description of the internal action, which seems to be in very good condition as I was not sure about the age - my main reason for wanting to find out a little more about the instrument is that there appears to be nothing online about GERMAN 28 models - just ENGLISH - and similarly nothing on concertinas in E and B - as I think Eb and Bb are the favoured keys - BILL

THANKS KEN - YOURS IS MY FIRST REPLY - BILL

ANYONE

I HAVE RECENTLY ACQUIRED A 28 BUTTON ANGLO CONCERTINA - KEYS E + B - [note NOT Eb / Bb] WITH ADDITIONAL NOTES ON THE THIRD ROW - E / F# / Bb / B / C# MADE IN GERMANY BUT NO MAKER'S NAME DOES ANYONE HAVE INFORMATION ABOUT THIS - OR SIMILAR ??

thanks LATE TO THE GAME - I will follow up on your advice - BILL

hi MEULEBROEK - I have the same problem - I have a 48 button THE GREMLIN with some broken buttons which look identical to the one in your photo - did you manage to get hold of some replacements - or a supplier BILL

OK - CHEERS THEO BILL

I'm new to this - so all suggestions gratefully received of course what you say JIM makes sense - the sound from the reeds needs to come through and not be blocked - thanks your comment about the colour of the reeds was also correct - brownish red ROD you mentioned about woven fabric - should I get this from a specific supplier or use a generic material ?? one other thing - it looks like I may need some springs replacing - where would be the best place to get these ??

Thanks ADRIAN for your comments - yes it's directly under the fretwork - as you say - probably just glue it back BILL

YES THANKS - MY MISTAKE - SHOULD BE - LL BILL

CHEERS JOHN - BILL

OK - Fdracula110 - will do - BILL

Hi - just joined the site I've bought a LACHENAL 20 button - serial 104203 - but it needs a bit of work to be 'up and running' my initial project concerns the velums?? under the fretwork at each end - they have curled up and pulled away obviously letting air through although they are not torn and appear complete judging by the difficulty in removing the end sections the instrument would appear to have had little or no corrective work and be in almost original condition QUESTION - should I try and repair and fix /glue the existing velums - keeping as much of the original instrument together and maybe sustaining it's value - or should I try and fix it with a newer and better material which will last for a few more years ?? BILL