Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Milesy

  1. I bought a set like these from Ebay. While most are of no use, I found half a dozen that would cut smaller valves. It was worth the relatively small cost. Extensive enquiries to find someone who would make a set specifically for concertina valves for me got nowhere. If you find someone that can supply a set, I'd be pleased to get details.
  2. I am asked to offer a Mahogany 30+1 Lachenal anglo in C/G for sale on behalf of a lady who brought it to me for a couple of minor repairs. The instrument dates to approximately 1898 (serial number 159689) and is in great condition. The bellows are sound and appear original, as do the pads and springs. Valves have been replaced at some point and the instrument re-tuned to A=440Hz and the steel reeds are all free from rust or signs of pitting. The instrument is located in Western Australia. The issues I dealt with: replace one valve, re-bush one lever arm socket and stabilise two minor action board cracks. Not being an anglo player, I hesitate to describe it’s playing characteristics, but all reeds voice and there doesn’t seem to any hesitation. The instrument passed through Friedman’s Music Shop in New Jersey at some point in it’s history (dealer’s label on action box). I am happy to share my inspection report with prospective buyers and have more photos of detail. Please PM me if interested. The seller is asking AU$2500.
  3. Supply and demand is a major factor - our population of concertina players is pretty small. That, coupled with issues selling/shipping overseas, results in the lower prices.
  4. I have an Lachenal with me for a a minor repair. It has a label " Friedman's Music Shop, ...... New Jersey". I can see online that the shop was still active in 1932. Any of our American friends able to supply further information?
  5. Happily, here in Western Australia, we still have Zenith Music - billed as "the best music store in Australia since 1969". The staff range in age from teenage music students through to more senior (in both age and status!). They are always happy to chat even if there is no sale imminent. I call in whenever I am in the area, mainly to browse the instruments - everything from grand pianos to jaw harps - and try out any concertinas that they have in.
  6. Hi Batt and welcome to the forum. It might help members to know where you are - we are scattered all over the globe! A member local to you may be able to give you some guidance.
  7. I would recommend velvet rather than felt. I have found that felt sheds fibres and will "pill" more readily than woven fabrics. Polyester velvet is pretty commonly available online if not at a local fabric store.
  8. Let us know your general location and someone will direct you to someone "local".
  9. Are you using a tuning bellows or checking the note by reassembling the concertina? Not uncommon to find that the note is different in the instrument when compared to out. Normal technique is to establish the adjustment needed with the reed in the instrument (e.g. note shows 40cents flat) on tuner then sharpen by 40cents from the note measured when the reed is on the tuning bellows. Then replace in the instrument and check. (You may know all of this, but your post suggests this is your first time tuning). Good luck and be gentle!!!! Reeds can easily be ruined by over zealous filing! Make sure you support the reed underneath with a thin shim - a strip of aluminium cut from a drink can will work if you have nothing else. Slide the shim between the reed and the reed shoe/plate.
  10. If it's an antique instrument, you might try a drop of hide glue (used by luthiers and fine cabinet makers) - it's reversible ie can be removed. this is the one I use: https://www.axminstertools.com/titebond-liquid-hide-glue-ax22595 Richard
  11. What make of concertina is it? I have had to fix a similar issue on a Lachenal. There was a tiny leak around the reed pan gasket on that occasion.
  12. Hi Clive, I have an English, serial no 575, that I am (slowly) restoring which has the same slots cut into the action box. I had never seen that feature before. So far I have been unable to identify a maker - my first thought was Lachenal, but the action is not typical. I'd be interested to see what you find out. incidentally, my English also has a name inscribed: Amelia Tidd. 1875.
  13. My estimate would be early 1880s......but I guess you know how difficult it is to date a Lachenal!
  14. You might try A C Norman & Co. Paddock, Shrewsbury SY5 9EL, United Kingdom. If he can't help he will have better local knowledge than I (I've been in Australia for 30 years so my UK contacts are rather thin on the ground!)..
  15. Hi Dan It's an "English" (keyboard layout) and from your photos it appears to be in original condition. The Serial number indicates it was made in 1850/51. Value depends on many variables. Where are you based? There will undoubtedly be a knowledgeable member somewhere near you who will be able to tell you more if they see it "in the flesh".
  16. I had an instrument with identical metal binding many years ago. I was told that it was from Germany. The use of Nr. for the "serial number" also suggests German manufacture.
  17. The trade mark will be on the wooden hand rests under the straps. Valuing an instrument depends on many factors and is best done by getting an expert to inspect and test the instrument. If you let us know where (country/city) you are, someone will be able to suggest where to take it that is local to you.
  18. Are you reading the serial number only from the end label? It may have a 1 in front of it that isn't easily visible, but would make approximately 30 years difference. Have you looked at the serial numbers inside? Establishing the age of Lachenals is a bit problematic but from example where the date of manufacture is known, some estimate is possible. I believe an 86*** number would be mid - late 1880s while a 186*** would be approximately 1913. Does the instrument have the Lachenal trade mark stamped on it?
  19. Some might say that all of us in Australia play upside down!!!
  20. I would have anticipated a higher value. Maybe the auction being restricted to UK bidders only has pushed the price down?
  21. I have been looking for press knives for valves for some time. Lucris weren't able to help. I have purchased some punches (pre-formed sets) from Ebay - some of the shapes match some valves but most of the larger knives are too big. I am going to try re-shaping in the workshop, though I don't hold out much hope of getting an acceptable shape and retain the cutting edge. The image shows a couple of the punches that work (15mm & 19mm). The larger one illustrates the problem. The upper valve was cut with this punch and is compared with a "shop bought" valve. If anyone does find a maker who can make sets, I would be glad to find out.
  22. Keep emails brief and to the point (advice from Mark to me). He gets lots and doesn't get to them if he is busy building bellows etc. I, too, phone him (from Australia) as a follow up.
  23. Hi All I have just received a Lachenal #50133 for some TLC. Inside on each action board is a pencil "scrawl" that may be repairers or owners initials. Does anyone recognise it (you might need to rotate the photo). The instrument has had new pads and valves somewhere along the line. Any information gratefully accepted - I would like to add more to it's story for the owner.
  24. Bought an EC from the UK a few years ago with the same smelly problem. The cigarette/pipe tobacco smell only lingered for a few weeks once the instrument was out of it's case..........unless my nose became insensitive to it! Let it breathe some clean air for a while.
  • Create New...