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Milesy

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Restoration, repair and playing English concertinas
  • Location
    Mandurah, Australia

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  1. I would recommend velvet rather than felt. I have found that felt sheds fibres and will "pill" more readily than woven fabrics. Polyester velvet is pretty commonly available online if not at a local fabric store.
  2. Let us know your general location and someone will direct you to someone "local".
  3. Are you using a tuning bellows or checking the note by reassembling the concertina? Not uncommon to find that the note is different in the instrument when compared to out. Normal technique is to establish the adjustment needed with the reed in the instrument (e.g. note shows 40cents flat) on tuner then sharpen by 40cents from the note measured when the reed is on the tuning bellows. Then replace in the instrument and check. (You may know all of this, but your post suggests this is your first time tuning). Good luck and be gentle!!!! Reeds can easily be ruined by over zealous filing! Make sure you support the reed underneath with a thin shim - a strip of aluminium cut from a drink can will work if you have nothing else. Slide the shim between the reed and the reed shoe/plate.
  4. If it's an antique instrument, you might try a drop of hide glue (used by luthiers and fine cabinet makers) - it's reversible ie can be removed. this is the one I use: https://www.axminstertools.com/titebond-liquid-hide-glue-ax22595 Richard
  5. What make of concertina is it? I have had to fix a similar issue on a Lachenal. There was a tiny leak around the reed pan gasket on that occasion.
  6. Hi Clive, I have an English, serial no 575, that I am (slowly) restoring which has the same slots cut into the action box. I had never seen that feature before. So far I have been unable to identify a maker - my first thought was Lachenal, but the action is not typical. I'd be interested to see what you find out. incidentally, my English also has a name inscribed: Amelia Tidd. 1875.
  7. My estimate would be early 1880s......but I guess you know how difficult it is to date a Lachenal!
  8. You might try A C Norman & Co. Paddock, Shrewsbury SY5 9EL, United Kingdom. If he can't help he will have better local knowledge than I (I've been in Australia for 30 years so my UK contacts are rather thin on the ground!)..
  9. Hi Dan It's an "English" (keyboard layout) and from your photos it appears to be in original condition. The Serial number indicates it was made in 1850/51. Value depends on many variables. Where are you based? There will undoubtedly be a knowledgeable member somewhere near you who will be able to tell you more if they see it "in the flesh".
  10. I had an instrument with identical metal binding many years ago. I was told that it was from Germany. The use of Nr. for the "serial number" also suggests German manufacture.
  11. The trade mark will be on the wooden hand rests under the straps. Valuing an instrument depends on many factors and is best done by getting an expert to inspect and test the instrument. If you let us know where (country/city) you are, someone will be able to suggest where to take it that is local to you.
  12. Are you reading the serial number only from the end label? It may have a 1 in front of it that isn't easily visible, but would make approximately 30 years difference. Have you looked at the serial numbers inside? Establishing the age of Lachenals is a bit problematic but from example where the date of manufacture is known, some estimate is possible. I believe an 86*** number would be mid - late 1880s while a 186*** would be approximately 1913. Does the instrument have the Lachenal trade mark stamped on it?
  13. Some might say that all of us in Australia play upside down!!!
  14. I would have anticipated a higher value. Maybe the auction being restricted to UK bidders only has pushed the price down?
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