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Everything posted by RWL

  1. Chris, you must have missed it in the diagram. These are 48 threads per inch and the screws are close in size to a 4-48 machine tap. I measured the pitch diameter of the Wheatsone with my thread micrometer, but the size of the head of the Lachenal thumb screw prevented the micrometer from reaching the threads on that one. I was too lazy and needed to grow a third arm to use the three wire system in my toolbox to measure the Lachenal. It certainly would be easiest to just tap the strap holes to 4-48 and use off the shelf screws, but then the holes would be permanently too large to match original thumb screws, should a subsequent owner wish to use originals. I was hesitant to do that unless I heard from the majority of current repairers that that's what they always do.
  2. I downloaded it to take a look. It's nice that it's a "portable" program that doesn't need installation or leave changes all over your hard drive. That said however, my first impression is that I don't see a reason I'd want to change from ABC Explorer, the current program I'm using. I tried to find the discussion on melodeon.net to see what others are saying about it, but couldn't find it. Can you give me a link to the discussion over there? RWL
  3. I'd like to add hand straps to my TT Edeophone and possibly to my Wheatstone Model 21. Since I have a metal lathe, I can make my own screws. The question deals with the dimensions of Lachenal vs Wheatstone screws and how to proceed. I've attached a diagram with my measurements of the screws below. They come close to standard 4-48 machine screws, but are smaller in diameter. In addition, my Lachenal's thumb screws are 0.004" smaller in diameter than the Wheatstone thumb screws. The Wheatstone thumbscrews won't screw into the strap holes in the Edeophone, so they are not interchangeable. The Lachenal thumb screws fit the Wheatstone's strap holes, but are a loose fit. Is this true across all Lachenals and Wheatstones? Both are a loose fit on a 4-48 nut, so just retapping the nuts to 4-48 would permanently alter the instrument and original / period thumb screws would no longer fit either instrument. Has anyone made their own thumb screws? I could make the screw threads to match the instrument, but I was wondering if there is a standard I should be working to and whether there's an easy way to make these rather than single point threading them (e.g. is brass threaded rod available in 4-48 and can be altered?). Since I have some 3/32" bronze brazing rod around I was going to use that for the screws. Bronze is harder than brass, so I don't know how well that's going to thread on such a small diameter screw.
  4. Metal ended Tenor-Treble Edeophone 3 lb. 11.5 oz (1690 gm) 6.75" (171 mm) across the flats Metal ended Wheatstone Mod. 21 Tenor 2 lb 14.5 oz (1320 gm) 6.25" (159 mm) Wood ended Lachenal Tenor - model with 5 fold bellows and bone keys 2 lb 11.5 oz (1235 gm) 6.125" (156 mm)
  5. My impression is that Hohners aren't well regarded, but this ad on eBay may provoke some discussion. The seller says it plays better than his Lachanal and is supposedly a Tenor-Treble, a range in which you have an interest. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOHNER-TENOR-TREBLE-ENGLISH-CONCERTINA-/261960091689? I only count 48 buttons plus the air button, so maybe their Tenor-Trebles eliminate some of the upper notes rather than adding the 8 more at the bottom end. It would be interesting to know why he says it's a TT and it will also be interesting to hear others experiences with Hohners.
  6. What is the best or least expensive way to ship a concertina from Germany to the USA, and what is the import duty? How does the import duty get collected? There is probably plenty of shipping from the UK to the US, but does anybody have any experience shipping from Germany?
  7. Like Noel, several keys on my Edeophone also responds to changes in the humidity with a strange buzzing or gurgling sound. The fix for my instrument is to pull out the offending reed and reseat it a little less tightly.
  8. Daria, What software are you using that makes the lines in different colors? Is it freeware? ... and hoping not to sidetrack the thread on Metsakukkia with a software discussion. Attached is a more readable update of the pdf version in A minor that's played locally and the ABC file below. X:1 T: Metsäkukkia T: Woodland Flowers Waltz O: Trad Finland Z: Frosties version M: 3/4 L: 1/8 K:Am %%barnumbers 4 |:z2 EE| "Am"E2 A2 B2 | c2 B2 A2 | e2 A2 B2 | cB A2 EE | E2 A2 B2 | c2 B2 A2 | "Dm"f2 A2 B2 | d2 c2 B2 | "Dm"d2 e2 f2 | f2 e2 d2 | "Am"e2 A2 B2 | c2 B2 A2| "E7"E2 ^G2 B2 | d2 c2 B2 | "Am"A3 A A2 | A2 :| |: a3f | "G7"f6- | f2 a3 f | "C"e6- | e2 f3 e | "E7"d6- | d2 e2 d2 | "Am"c6- | c4 e2 | | "Am"e2 e2 e2 | e2 d2 c2 | "E7"B6- | B6- | E2 ^G2 E2 | c4 B2 | "Am"A3 A A2 | A2 :| |: a3^g | "Am"a2 e3e | e4 c>B | c4 A>^G | A4 e2 | "Dm"f4 e2 | d2 f2 a2 | "Am"e2 A2 B2 | c2 B2 A2 | "E7"E2 ^G3 A | B6 | "Am"E2 A3 B | c6 | "E7"E2 ^G2 A2 | B2 c2 B2 | "Am"A3 A A2 | A2 :| Metsakukkia Waltz - Frosties Am .pdf
  9. The local dulcimer group plays this. Attached is the page from our music collection. It looks like C but I guess it's A minor. I have an mp3 of the group playing it (without my fiddling) from 2011, but I'm not sure if I can attach a 3 Mb file here.
  10. That makes four of us concertina players in this region of the state. Two of us are English players. I'm near Winfield/Lewisburg, PA and the other two are in/near State College, PA. It was 4ºF here the other morning. Probably colder than that up where you live. The concertina cap would be practical in this weather.
  11. It appears that the humidifier needed about 2.5 weeks to get the case and instrument to absorb enough moisture to raise the humidity in the case to 44%. The current relative humidity in my house is around 28%, so the Humistat #1 is now doing the job. It may be that the larger Humistat #3 would be better if you need the humidity raised sooner, if you have enough room in your case.
  12. "Have you adjusted the screw at the bottom?" Yes, all 4 holes are open.
  13. I should also mention that the room's relative humidity is running about 28%, so the humistat #1 only raises the case interior by 10%. I've got an email off to the inventor / seller, David Berliner to see if there's possibly something that I should do differently.
  14. I bought the Humistat #1 - Hygrometer combo. With all of the holes open, it only gets my case up to 38% humidity. I think this humidifier is too small even for a concertina case. Has anyone tried the larger humidifier?
  15. According to my reference "Disposition of Toxic Drugs and Chemicals in Man" there is no chronic organ damage from xylene exposure, so no liver problems. Like anything else, in high concentrations, e.g. drinking the stuff, it can kill you. See the attached page - and hoping it can be read.
  16. I'll add a PS to the subject. Some luthiers use xylene to remove rosin from stringed instruments. It doesn't affect spirit or oil varnish, or the sprayed lacquers on mass produced violins. Put some on a Q tip and check under the fingerboard first to make sure your instrument doesn't have a finish that's the exception to the rule.
  17. If I couldn't go outdoors or go somewhere where I couldn't smell the xylene when I was done, I wouldn't use it either. In my cellar shop, it dissipates rather quickly for the few times I need to use it. Taking the affected rags outside to the trash helps a great deal. At one of the labs we covered, they used a product called Citrisolve (Fisher Scientific) as a xylene substitute in the tissue processor. I don't know if it's the same as the product Citra Solv that is more readily available to the public. That's why I was hesitant to be sure that Citra Solv would dissolve wax. Your home would smell like oranges for the day. Small doses of xylene or Citrisolve is unlikely to damage the card stock, leather or glue of the bellows, but it could remove the black finish from the surrounding card if you went very widely around the paper.
  18. I wouldn't go out of my way to breathe high concentrations of any solvent, but we used xylene(s) in our histology lab for decades, long before there were OSHA mandated ventilation standards, when the lab always had a faint aroma of xylene, and nobody got sick. Nobody got cancer. If you get tired of the sandpaper method, use nitrile gloves, do it outdoors and wipe over the papers with a xylene moistened rag to wipe off the old polish. It might also remove the black from other areas, so don't wipe it on too broadly. IIRC d-limonene, made from citrus skins also dissolves wax. Citra Solv might work but I don't have personal experience with that and wax.
  19. Xylene dissolves wax. In the US it's available in hardware stores in the paint section.
  20. It makes sense that "May not" just means that the seller didn't specifically check off the box for shipping to other parts of the world than the UK. Here is what I was seeing: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11021.m43.l3160/7?euid=718724ca7dcf4f06a2c4833f1e45681b&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.co.uk%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D281483385447%26ssPageName%3DADME%3ASS%3ASS%3AUS%3A3160&exe=9844&ext=24778&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext On the other hand I also see ones like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lachenal-48-Key-English-Concertina-Requires-A-Complete-Restoration-/281483385447?ssPageName=ADME:SS:SS:US:3160 That seller highlights in red that s/he's not selling in the USA. In another forum I used to participate in, one of the members was a used machinery dealer and because of problems with Canadian customs he wouldn't ship to Canada. I had wondered if there were some problem with our US regulations that was inhibiting sales to us.
  21. I'm not actively searching for another concertina but I do follow the eBay postings. With increasing frequency I see the notation "May not post to the USA", mostly from UK sellers. Has something changed? Why are they restricting sales to anyone except the USA?
  22. I recently built a case for my Edeophone from 1/2" plywood. It's far too heavy although very sturdy. If I were to do it again, I'd use 1/4' or 3/16" plywood and use finger joints for the sides. I have tended to make my top and bottom pieces thick enough to put some brads from the sides into the top and bottom with the thought that if the glue ever deteriorated, the brads would keep the top or bottom from falling out abruptly. Start by deciding on how much space each instrument requires and then diagram it, adding the padding thickness and plywood around that space. Consider adding a little storage space for a recorder, paper pad, pencil and screwdriver at one end.
  23. Another first time attender and newbie EC player. Next year I'll be better. Worth the 5.5 hour drive. It was very interesting to see all of the instruments for sale. I wonder if anybody bought any instruments from either Greg or the Button Box. Also, Greg, I liked your instrument talk. Your comment regarding it's hard to break a steel reed gave me confidence to play around with a reed or two that didn't speak well in my instrument.
  24. This will be my first one; about a 5 hour drive from central PA. I've been playing for less than a year and hope to pick up some pointers on fingering for the English concertina. Also looking forward to Greg Jowaisas talk on evaluating and repairing concertinas.
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