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Everything posted by RWL

  1. As promised, here are the photos from the installation on my TT Edeophone. It previously had had wrist straps, but the inserts in that installation were such that the straps rode too high onto the back of my hands and limited my movement. I installed a new set of inserts so that the straps would be over my wrist, and not my hand. My biggest problem was in clamping the instrument securely to the table for the drilling. The sides are not exactly flat, leading to some instability. I can see the advantage of the point from a Forstner bit. I was able to upload two of the three photos I wanted to show. I've tried five times to upload the third photo, but it failed every time. I don't know what it doesn't like about that photo.
  2. Don has a good suggestion. If the battery charger doesn't give the output voltage, check it with a voltmeter and get a battery with a similar voltage.
  3. Thanks Chris. I had the time today to grind them to 0.080" (2 mm). That thickness made more sense than 1/8" (3 mm) I had made them initially. At 2 mm the wood screw has more threads in the wood than at 3 mm, and there are still plenty of threads in the metal for the thumb screws. I installed the inserts and wrist straps on my Edeophone this afternoon. I'll post photos later.
  4. Out of curiosity, for those of you who have installed inserts before or removed them, how thick are they? I made mine 1/8" thick.
  5. PS to David Robertson. I hadn't thought about a Forstner bit since I don't own any. I'm more of a home shop machinist than a wood worker. Now that I potentially could have used a Forstner bit, I'll have to keep my eyes open for those at yard sales and flea markets.
  6. After I went to bed last night it occurred to me that I should have mentioned that two flute end mills are known as slot drills in the UK, but Geoff understood. I had planned to use a "guide" to hold down the wood at the edge of the hole so that no "burr" was raised by the end mill on the surrounding surface of the wood. An alternative I've seen work when you saw (by hand, not power) and don't want to splinter the surface of the wood adjacent to the cut is to put a piece of masking tape over the wood and cut through the tape. I'm not sure how well the tape method would work with an end mill, plus there's always the possibility that the tape would lift the finish when it was peeled off.
  7. This is a topic I didn't spot in either David Elliot's book (2nd edn.) or using the search function for the forums. I have a plan on how I think I'll do it, but before I butcher the wood, I wondered how others have installed brass inserts for English concertina wrist straps. My plan is to drill a hole in a thin piece of wood to act as a guide. I'll be using a 5/16" end mill since that produces a flat bottomed hole. I'll locate where on the concertina I want the insert, clamp the guide over the site to keep the wood from splintering, and using a drill press, drill the hole with the end mill to a depth of 1/8", the thickness of my inserts. Are there other or better ways of doing this? Do you glue the insert in the hole in addition to screwing it down with the #1 wood screw (1/4" length - because that's the thickness of the wood at this point. I'll need to drill a small hole into the wood beneath the thumb screw hole so that the thumb screws can screw in completely. Is it OK to go through the wood into the air chamber, or should this be avoided? (I see small through holes for the thumb strap inserts in my Wheatstone Model 21) Anything else I need to know?
  8. Although inserts are available inexpensively ($2.50 apiece) from Concertina Connection, I decided to make the four that I needed. I measured the inserts in three different concertinas that I have (two Lachenals and a Wheatstone) and got three different diameters - 0.300", 0.320", and 0.330". When I install these, I'll need a flat bottomed hole. Since end mills produce flat bottomed holes and a 5/16" end mill is 0.312" diameter, I turned a 3/8" piece of brass rod to that diameter and drilled two holes in the end. I beveled one of the holes for a #1 wood screw, threaded the other with a 3-48 tap, and then cut off a 1/8" segment of the rod - presto, one insert. I beveled the hole in the end of the rod and cut another segment off, etc to get the four inserts I need. Photos below. The last photo of a single insert is copied from the Concertina Connection and illustrates a commercial insert. I'll start another post to get opinions on how to install the inserts.
  9. I measured the inserts for the thumbscrews and have attached my diagram with dimensions to this post. Lachenal inserts are a little larger in diameter than Wheatstone inserts. The screw heads come closest to #1 screws and are 1/4" long. The ones in my instruments are steel rather than brass. A packet of 50 screws costs less than a dollar (US) but with shipping it comes to $3.78 from Dana's suggestion of Craft Inc.
  10. The business in Queensland has a pretty good selection of small brass screws. I wish they weren't on the opposite side of the world, but if I can't get the screws I need in the US, I'll take another look.
  11. Ah. Measuring the diameter of the countersunk area to get the size of the screw isn't something that I would have thought of. Thanks for that and the site to buy small screws.
  12. My Wheatstone Model 21 had wrist straps in the past and I'd like to put straps on. The lower ones never had nuts / inserts and used wood screws. I'd like to install inserts / nuts for the lower strap screws like the upper strap screws have as seen in the photos below. I am aware that the inserts are available at concertinaconnection.com but I have the equipment to make these inserts myself. My problem is screws to hold the inserts in place. What size screws do these inserts use, and where can I get a few of these tiny screws?
  13. I got a 3-48 die and made some thumbscrews for my Edeophone. I'll have to wait for the 6 BA die to make somewhat larger screws for my Wheatstone model 21. Photos of the project completion below. [Despite uploading the photos in the correct order, they appear out of order in the post and I don't know how to correct that.]
  14. Someone's playing The Wren (or at least a very similar an dro) on the Buttonbox's website for English concertinas. Check out the Lachenal New model video: www.buttonbox.com/concertinas-in-stock.html#english ...and Jim Besser - Daria was to the jam in my area last night (Frosty Valley Dulcimer Friends, Danville, PA). We tried to make a video of The Wren for you, but neither of us have it under our fingers quite yet.
  15. I ordered both a 3-48 and a 6 BA die to see which threads work best. I'll report back when I complete some thumb screws.
  16. I also posed this question on a machinists group and several members there also thought this is more likely to be a BA 6 screw thread. I stand corrected on believing this was not a BA screw. I'm pondering my options at this point. Dana, thanks for the information about where to find small wood screws. I hadn't realized you were in the USA.
  17. I had not thought about the costs of restoration. That certainly would raise the cost depending on how much needed to be done.
  18. OK. With the buyer's premium and VAT on the buyer's premium, that brings the price to 1833 pounds or $2860 USD. It appears that the buyer got it at a good price, but I don't know if that represents the current demand for Edeophones. I assumed that the 3% to the hosting web site was paid by the auctioneer.
  19. I know that the buyer's premium was 18.5%. How much was the VAT?
  20. I was successful today in making a prototype screw that threaded part way into the nuts on the Edeophone. Using a die would be the easiest way to make a handful of these screws. At someone's suggestion I tried a 3-48 machine screw in the Edeophone and it fit well even though it's about 0.010 undersize. Unfortunately I don't have a 3-48 die. I used some tailstock support with a quickie "female center". There wasn't enough room for the quick change toolpost, so I had to revert to a lantern style tool post. Photos below.
  21. Ahhh. Being able to rearrange the windows and have them stay in the same place the next time you open the program makes this more interesting. A little slow to open but I could live with that if it makes editing easier.
  22. First I had to grind a small threading tool since my regular threading tool won't reach close to the shank of the screw. I turned down a piece of brazing rod to around 0.103", which itself wasn't easy without support on the outboard end. Since I had plenty of brazing rod, I thought I'd try threading it without outboard support to see if it would work. As expected, it didn't, and the screw bent. Photos below. I need to come up with some way to support the far end of the screw. I don't know if I have a tiny center drill that will put a hole in the end of the screw. Photos of the failed attempt below.
  23. Dana. I missed your post about not being able to read the dimensions on the Wheatstone screw. They are 0.107" diameter and the pitch diameter according to my semi-functioning thread micrometer are 0.096" dia. Both screws are about 1/4" long.
  24. I hadn't considered making the offset nuts to match UNF threads. For me it would be a dickens to find those tiny wood screws that hold the disk in place.
  25. The thumb screws are not a BA thread as far as I can tell. They would fall somewhere between a BA 6 and 7 screw size. They come closest to UNF 4-48. Would that they were a standard size - as you suggest, I could order a few screws of the appropriate size and fit them to brass discs to make the thumb screws. I guess 100 years ago they still didn't have firm thread standards. It's looking more like I'll have to single point them on my lathe.
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