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RWL

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Everything posted by RWL

  1. Here's a funny Budweiser beer commercial with a concertina sighting at 24 seconds. The original was an mp4 file which most viewers could probably open, but it was almost 5 Mb so it couldn't be attached to this thread. The only way I could find to shrink it enough to make it attachable was to convert it to a windows wmv file - and in ntsc format. Some on the other side of the Atlantic might not be able to view this. If there's another workaround to make it more universally viewable let me know. Bud_Commercial_w_concertina_@_24_sec.wmv
  2. In a couple of recent threads, flat vs round topped buttons were mentioned and it prompted me to ask the question - am I the only one whose finger tips get tender from playing my concertina? My main instrument is a 56 key tenor treble Edeophone whose buttons are rounded and relatively small. Admittedly it's possible I'm hammering my buttons, but I wondered if tenderness was common to small round topped buttons.
  3. If you find someone in the Portland area, great. Many of us are self taught and used the Butler tutorial on the English concertina: http://www.concertina.com/butler/butler-the-concertina-tutor.pdf
  4. Welcome Michael. I have little to add other than to point out Dave Elliot's book The Concertina Maintenance Manual 2nd Edition which you may have to source from him because of the ridiculous Amazon price. I have "known" Michael through several years of a luthier's discussion group TOBI (theory of bowed instruments) where he has freely shared information on instrument repair. He is one of the premier restorers and is one of the few who have actually worked on and photographed Stradivarius and other similar age instruments.
  5. Is it a tenor treble or an extended treble? What is your expectation on price?
  6. Enough to see the shape of an Edeophone.
  7. Yes. I added 1/8" to my height calculation to allow for the saw cut.
  8. I checked with my son. They're using an Epilog Fusion 40 (75W laser, 40" x 28" bed area) https://www.epiloglaser.com/company/pr/fusion-40-release.htmand it has a maximum height of 13.25" not 13.5 as I initially said.
  9. I don't know how much power the laser has, but it did do it in one pass if I understood my son correctly. He said it would't be a problem to add a straight line cut to the pieces to create the top at the time it was initially cut. By the same token, he said the device has 13.5" of head room so it could be used to cut through an already glued box to create the top.
  10. I plan to put it on my table saw and cut the lid off the glued box. It's just how I've always made the few cases that I've made. That way you know your sides are going to match up. I hadn't thought about using the laser cutter to make the lid cut, but that's an interesting idea. My son is the one who set up the laser cutter.
  11. Here are some photos of the case as cut by the laser. I used some Lauan that was lying around the shop. The contrasting wood color at the joints is pretty enough I considered just varnishing it, but then I decided I'd have to treat the box like a piece of furniture to keep it from getting scratched when I carry it around, so I'll just cover it with black nylon cloth instead. The first photo is approximately how the program laid out the pieces for the laser cutter. The second is the box assembled without any glue. The third photo is of the end with the specifics of internal dimensions I chose and material thickness. My case will be longer along the front to give me an area to the right of my instrument to store a recording device, reading glasses and a screwdriver. Even without glue, the finger joints seem pretty strong. In a previous case I made, I used wood for the top and bottom thick enough that I could drive thin nails in from the sides to keep the top or bottom from ever dropping out. With finger joints for the top and bottom I think I can rely on the glue. That really helps with case weight. The wood pieces as they are now weigh 1.75 lbs. (~0.8 Kg)
  12. So what make of concertina did you buy in Philly?
  13. Thanks George. Nice to know my consideration of 3/16" lauan isn't crazy.
  14. My son has access to a laser cutter at the university where he works and made me aware of this site http://www.makercase.com/ when I asked him to cut some 1/4" plywood for a case I want to make. You just enter the dimensions of the case and it generates the laser cutter case plans. You don't even have to calculate exterior dimensions. If you know the interior dimensions and the thickness of the material, it calculates the exterior dimensions for you. It gives you a choice of flat joints, finger joints and t slot joints and generates those for you as well. It's a neat web site. Out of curiosity for those of you who have made cases, what thickness of material do you use? I'm wondering if I could drop to 3/16" luan since the finger joints make a pretty secure join and it does those joints for not only the sides but the top and bottom as well. Or even use 1/8" masonite??? I was planning to add a strip of wood inside the rim so that the screws for the hinges (and handle) would have something more to bite into. R Lamparter
  15. It sounds like you have a 20 button Anglo/German concertina. Different notes for each button on push and pull and it will be in two specific keys, e.g. C/G or D/G commonly. I have no personal experience with Scholar concertinas, but my impression is that they are not particularly sought after. In general 30 button Anglos are more desirable than 20 button models and Wheatstone and Lachenal are the two most common manufacturers which produced quality concertinas. Someone with experience with Scholars may be able to tell you what the limitation is of that instrument compared to one of the better concertinas. I'd be hesitant to call someone's instrument junk unless it was unplayable and unrepairable but you're dealing with a low end instrument.
  16. Darn. I was hoping this would be easy. I'm used to playing the melody, but the group already has two fiddles, so they need someone to play backup. Not being a guitar player with any familiarity of chords, my task has been 'educational'.
  17. Since one button down would be a fifth and that's part of an arpeggio, which should blend with the note of the button above it, would it work to harmonize with a tune by playing the tune one button below where you'd normally play? Having tried playing a few tunes this way, some of the sharps and flats have to change, but that's still workable. The few tunes in the key of C that I tried didn't have to change at all. In G some notes did have to change.
  18. I was reminded by the ad below that in the nearby town of Sunbury (in PA in the USA) there's a luncheonette called the Squeeze In. So called because it's in a very narrow building squeezed in by the two on either side. It's been around long enough that it's an establishment.
  19. Center of the back row in a white shirt holding a metal ended Edeophone for me. Maybe it was just the nice weather or maybe I've gone enough times that I've gotten to know a bunch of people, but this seemed like a particularly fun year at NESI.
  20. The DNA reports in the UK seem to give more specific data than what my sister obtained here in the USA. Hers reported 62% Western Europe which is pretty broad. Genealogically we're German with a little Swiss, going back into early 1600s and late 1500s. I didn't feel the report gave her / us much information. I would have been happier if it had specified which countries in Western Europe.
  21. I noted that you put your gusset patches on the outside. I'm not questioning your work because clearly you are one of the experts, but David Elliot's book advises patching from the inside to keep the bulk down / for cosmetic reasons. Placing them on the outside certainly would be easier because of access and visibility. The one and only gusset patch I ever placed was on the inside because of the book's advice. When do you put gusset patches on the outside and when do you put them on the inside?
  22. People in the violin making world tell me that vinegar will soften PVA glue. I've never had a reason to try it though.
  23. I counted 34 instruments and 15 were English concertinas.
  24. I don't do a lot of buying and selling, but in general, I think prices for English concertinas have been flat for the few years I've been playing. There is no increase in demand nor any significant degree of inflation to drive up the prices. One good player showing up at sessions or a music festival however raises interest. Rachel Hall is one of the principals of Juniata Folk College and her playing there inspired several of us to acquire English concertinas.
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