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Łukasz Martynowicz

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Posts posted by Łukasz Martynowicz

  1. 1 hour ago, Don Taylor said:

    If the Elise-2 uses the same basic box as the Rochelle-2 then it will be a 6 1/2" box (vs. 7 1/2" for the standard Elise).

    7 1/3” to be exact. But I seriously doubt, that Wim would release a cheap box that would cannibalize Troubadour sales (if there are any, as this is the least reasonable Hayden on the market judged by utility to price ratio) so 34 buttons on Elise 2 seems like the most likely number.

  2. On 8/19/2021 at 2:45 AM, Don Taylor said:

    I would be very interested to see some photographs of the inside of a Rochelle 2 - the action board and the reed pan.


    (I doubt very much that Wim will make a Jack/Jackie 2 or an Elise 2 with a high button count.  AFAICT he is using flat-mounted reeds which limits the number of reeds he can accomodate to something in the mid-30 range).

    It is perfectly possible to fit 45 accordion reeds flat in 7” box. I have just printed a „field grade camping box” last week using reclaimed Elise bellows and reeds (which are in fact slightly oversized and the whole task would be a lot easier if they had standard scaling). All but 3 lowest of those 45 reeds are flat mounted, with only three lowest notes having my slanted chambers to improve response to instantaneous). I sincerely do not know why 7” Peacock has only 42 buttons and why Wim continues to design disfunctional Haydens when he clearly has the expertise to make all other systems properly.

  3. 8 hours ago, David Barnert said:


    Of course, 3D printing was not available in 2002 except in a primordial sense.


    I was thinking not about manufacturing method, but the underlying principle, because Goran's claim was that my design was "nothing new". As it turns out however, even the goals of Michael's design were entirely different.

    Thanks again for providing the link.

  4. A question for the c.net collective mind: in a rather heated discussion on facebook group, Goran Rahm (known around here more than a decade ago from what I gather) has stated, that this type of handle design had been proposed earlier by Michael Bell in Concertina World 421 Nov 2001 (with drawings) and later in an article here on c.net (with photos). I have found the relevant link in this thread 

    but the link is sadly no longer active and I can't find Concertina World article either. Does anyone here know where can I find drawings or photos of Michael's design? Just curious how close our concepts are.


  5. Ok, so here is a very short video of the freedom and control this handle design gives. No actual playing yet, as a) it is not tuned yet, and b) I have to relearn how to play first :D


    @dabbler: buttons, button interfaces and pads are printed with simple "matt PLA", as there are no special concerns regarding durability or longevity of the material for those parts, you won't submerge the concertina anyways (and I don't expect to move to high humidity area any time soon either). And no, I won't be lubricating those, there is a layer of felt between the button and the paddle to take care of noise and friction.

    • Like 1
  6. 4 hours ago, RAc said:


    well Łukasz, you certainly have my highest respect for your work. I also have cut down on my few spare cycles for practicing in favor of working on my own custom concertina, which threw me back significantly...


    One remark about your design: If I remember a conversation with Alex H. correctly (please jump in, Alex, if I'm wrong), the areas marked red, though aesthetically plaesing, are statically problematic as those sharp edges may easily break under little tension?...


    All the best nevertheless!




    This is why it is 6mm thick solid wood, and my handle design leaves no force on the fretwork whatsoever - the only contact points are fingers and the "anvil" part of the handle. So I'm pretty confident that it won't snap under normal use conditions. Of course accidents may happen, but there is nothing hard in repairing this in such unfortunate case, benefits of shellac finish.

  7. 28 minutes ago, David Barnert said:


    I’m sorry, I’m having trouble understanding how this works. No straps, just the wooden pieces we see in the picture? Can you perhaps show us a picture of how your hand fits into it?


    Is there an air vent button?


    There will be an air vent lever, but I needed to solve the handle design first (which, in turn, needed a working platform to work on), so it is "to do", I forgot to list it above.

    It is a bit hard to make picture with hands crossed, but I'll post a short video once the whole thing is finished to show the capabilities of this handle design. Probably within two weeks. On first two attached photos you can see how this works in resting position (bear in mind that forearm angle is caused by trying to make a photo), then next two show examples of extreme reach - all D# pressed and then all Cs with highest F with a pinky. Any "wrap arounds", chords (including whatever 4 finger chords you need) etc are easily reachable all over the place because there is no classic handrest to go in the way and limit the movement of the palm. Thumb does not bear any load, everything rests on the "door handle" part between the thumb and the index finger (under which you "roll" the hand to reach everything), the thumb "strap" works like a thimble and only anchors the hand in relation to the button array. Bellows can be properly operated because the thumb is locked in one plane between the "door handle" and "the anvil" parts but free to swivel back and forth otherwise. What is important is that there is no gymnastics or awkward twisting of the muscles involved (as occur with hand straps because confines of the strap), because both the palm and the wrist are completely free, so it is very easy on the hand. This really resembles "flying hand", just anchored with a thumb thimble. Also, the plane of the thumb is not parallel to the endplates, but at a sharp angle to it, so wrists and arms work in ergonomic way.







    • Like 1
  8. Reeds are now installed and mostly adjusted for attack speed and volume, only highest reeds need some more adjustments. Lowest reeds have rather complex chambers to achieve immediate response at minimal pressures. The whole thing is fast but heavy, as one expects from box with 62 reeds. Because this project was first designed for a set of larger-than-standard old russian reeds, which were then exchanged for smaller-than-standard DIX reeds it could be a bit smaller. (It is now 8 2/3" but could be about 8"). It weights 2200g. 

    Only those highest reeds, bellows papers, handles staining/polishing and endplate meshes left to do at this point. And learning how to play on it after another 8 months of break...

    LH reeds.jpg

    RH reeds.jpg

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 2
  9. Handles are completely non-traditional. Large Haydens are difficult to play with hand straps, so I've designed this. It allows nearly "flying hand", I can comfortably reach entire RH array with practically ANY finger. This enables playing large chords or octaves all over the place - I can use my pinky at the top or index finger for D# easily. The "door handle" part substitutes strap completely in sitting position, even with only single lap support and free floating second side.

    It is 3d printed with wood filament and will be stained and polished to match the ends.


    • Like 1
  10. Mechanisms are non-traditional. Some of the levers were too short for classic button-lever interface, so mine are decoupled - buttons press on the levers and are confined by a collar at the endplate side. Button cores, lever interfaces and pad "papers" are 3d printed.






    • Like 1
  11. 8 hours ago, Nighthawk said:

    Very interesting, thanks for sharing.  I find this quite appealing and will give it a try the next time I arrange something for Hayden.


    If you have any questions on how to actually use this Musescore fork, feel free to ask, as it comes without any instructions and has some non-intuitive elements to it at first preparation/template making stage.

  12. When life presents such a dillema to me I come at it from a different angle -  how will I feel afterwards with possible outcomes. If you don’t accept and nobody get’s sick afterwards you have just lost a gig and some money, you will forget about it in a week or two. If someone does get sick, you won’t and your life goes on uninterrupted - you can pat yourself in the back for making good decision. If you go and nobody get’s sick, you get some money and a nice if a bit scary evening and a week or two living in uncertainty and stress if you are susceptible to such worries. And if you go and do get sick, you will forever regret going, especially if you propagate this desease on your family or friends. Now because all those eventualities have unknown weights and our brains realy and fundamentally suck at probabilities, there is no room for rationality here, only for psychology - personally, are you scared and seek confirmation with this post, or have you already decided on going because COVID is no big deal and seek confirmation that there is nothing to worry about?

  13. 3 hours ago, David Colpitts said:

    As a “dabbler” in Anglo (about 7 years; suppose I may be almost “intermediate” by now) and Hayden Duet (about 4 years Elise and last 4 months with an old Bastari 46b from the initial run) I can tell you that the Anglo is still my “go-to” for tunes already in my head and (crucially, to my brain) on the home rows.  That’s why I got a G/D, so I could play the “harmonicas in my hands” without missing a beat.

    OTOH, the Elise and lately, the Bastari Hayden have opened up so much more:  I can play along with others in keys besides G and D, for example, and can play minor keys (which I know I should have been able to to on the Anglo, but didn’t) and am just having fun with the unisonority of it all.  I will learn more music theory with the Haydens, for sure, and the isomorphic part strikes me every day as genius.


    For the Elise:  It is, as others say, a good start.  It can’t play in A, if that is an issue, but for 400 bucks it is a really good value sort of “miniature CBA” to get the hang of.  And, I concur in praise of the Michael Eskin apps (I must have eight or ten) and also recommend a program called “MusixPro” by “Shiverware.”  Lets you play so many keyboards, for information and practice:  Hayden, Janko, CBA in both B and C, and so much more.  I use it all the time.  Built-in sounds kind of cheesy, but for me it’s about the fingering for these different systems.


    Have a great trip!




    Seconded on "Musix" by Shiverware. I use it regularily on train journeys for fingering practice/learning new material without annoying fellow passengers. If you (Sean) are interested in CBAs you can get a hang of the differences in fingering between C- and B-system within the same neat package. One thing though - default orientations are designed for devices lying flat, so trying to hold your phone to mimic concertina orientation doesn't work out-of-the-box, but fortunately you can design your own presets so this obstacle can be overcome. Even on small phone you can fit one entire side of Elise with true "buttons" spacing, thus train your muscle memory for the real instrument.


  14. 6 hours ago, Sean M said:

    Thanks for all the responses!



    I don't have an exact repertoire in mind but I often find myself humming something from a TV show or movie or hearing a song that I'd like to play and then find it's fairly difficult to play on my Anglo due to it being in a strange key like B maj or a flat key. Also, most of the stuff I'm thinking of is something I'd want to play on my own with self accompaniment. While I'm aware this is often possible on the Anglo I'm okay with leaving the Anglo to folk dance music and getting duet concertina (or even a small CBA) for other types of music. Another style of music I like to listen to but find difficult to play on my Anglo are French tunes like this: 



    I can play the melody just fine on my Anglo but it sounds empty to me with out the chords backing it. 

    I've checked out the button layout of available notes on the Elise and I can see it's limited but it seems okay for the start and hopefully if it's something I stick with I can do a trade in upgrade to something like the CC Peacock or Morse Beaumont.

    Amelie soundtrack is exactly what got me into duets and most of my repertoire is adapted from accordions. Haydens are very intuitive for typical oom-pah chord progressions and Elise is good enough (although very limiting) entry point for learning to play this kind of music. However, this is also the exact reason why I find available upgrade path problematic - both Troubadour and Peacock from Concertina Connection lack LH A4, which occurs a lot in accordion style oom-pahs (and you will use it a lot on Elise for this kind of music). Personally I find missing a single note out of accompaniment circle of otherwise rich, three note chords utterly annoing and arrangement breaking. So, for me, this cuts down purchase worthy and reachable upgrade options solely to Beaumont. 

    If you also consider CBA to be an option, then take a look at Hohner Nova I 49f - this is the smallest free-bass accordion, allowing duet-like countermelody arrangements. Similarily to duets, it has the same button layout for both hands.

  15. I have played both Anglo and Hayden for a couple of months during my transition between systems, but then have abandoned anglo altogether simply because I found duets more suiting my needs. But I had no problem switching instruments during practice session, as the nature of those two systems is so much apart, that there was no confusioin at all.
    But, as years long owner of Elise I must ask - what repertoire exactly are you thinking of? Because the main difference in instrument limitations between anglos and duets isn't bisonoric vs unisonoric nature of the instrument, but the universal range of notes on the anglo vs model specific range of notes on duets - up to a level of "standard" 46 or Beaumont 52 keys you will always desire more, as you will run into many arragements problems. And while Hayden is a great system and Elise is an ok entry level instrument, it is, at it's core, a diatonic instrument dressed up into chromatic outfit. So be aware, from the very start, of the prices and note ranges of upgrade options and check what exact range you will need for your final desired repertoire.

  16. Nowadays you have the following options, in price order: Stagi, then Troubadour & Peacock from Concertina Connection, then Beaumont from Morse Concertinas, and finally Wakker H-1 & H-2. Note range wise the list goes as follows: 36 button Troubadour, 42 Peacock, 46 Stagi and Wakker H-1, 52 Beaumont, 65 Wakker H-2. That is all.

  17. I actually have two tunes causing trouble by this. The feature I talk about is even more pronounced on slanted Park layout (similar hex based layout with whole tone/minor third/perfect fourth instead of Hayden's whole tone/perfect fourth/perfect fifth axes) where you play all major, minor, seventh, sus4 and augmented chords with a natural middle finger position further from the palm. On a Hayden you play minor and sus4 chords with inverted finger position, with your longest finger closest to the palm, which causes me a lot of troubles with left hand minor chord oom-pahs and arpeggios, because my middle finger attack angle is so skewed (I have very long fingers) and Hayden slant emphasises this problem even further for the left hand.

  18. 7 hours ago, David Barnert said:


    I’m sorry, I don’t see what you’re saying. Which finger? The only way I see to play a 1-3-5 triad with the same finger on 1 whether it’s major or minor is to put the middle and ring fingers on the root and fifth, with the index finger for the minor 3rd or the pinkie for the major 3rd, but that works on a standard Hayden as well. This is for the right hand (since the Striso has only one side, which most of us would play with the right hand). If using the left hand, it’s the ring and middle fingers that stay on 1 and 5 with the pinkie for the minor 3rd or the index finger for the major 3rd.

    Index finger on root, then for major triad middle finger on fifth and ring finger on third. Then ~90 degrees wrist twist gives you index still on root, middle on minor third and ring on fifth. You can also play first inversion of IVmaj mid twist (at ~45 degrees) with same fingering. On a „proper Hayden” row shift is larger so that this wrist twist is bigger and grouping my fingers to do the same feels uncomfortable.

    The reason I find this usefull is that you can play oom-pahs and some arpeggios using same (mirrored for arpeggios) wrist-gimball-only movement which enable „tremor amplifiying” technique of fast playing. Of course on concertinas there is also hand strap preventing you from doing this, but nevertheless I find it a feature of Striso angles, not the bug.

  19. One aspect of his offset that I actually like - you can play minor and major triads with the same finger on the root note, which makes a typical pop progressions easier to finger, but require wrist twist that is way harder on concertinas. 

    This also shows that he started working on his grid with squares instead of hexagons and then skewed them slightly.

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