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  1. Yesterday
  2. I see the issue, you gave the wrong serial number in your original post. In your original post above the serial number given was14,949 which is a very early serial number and what my replies have been based on. I see you have updated this since my original post with the correct serial number. Being off by one digit makes a huge difference. Seth
  3. I'm not sure about Dagwood (actually "Blondie"), but a lot of American comics do... or at least did, when there were more paper papers carrying comics. In fact, the brother of a friend of mine used to make his living translating comics from English into Danish. (I believe he's now retired.) I remember him telling how impossible it could be when the English involved a pun... sometimes a multiple pun. But these days I get most of my American cartoons and comics, including Blondie, online. And I am, after all, a native American (not to be confused with a Native American), though I've living in Denmark for almost 25 years.
  4. An update: Gary Coover (author of numerous instructional books for the Anglo - see below) is planning to visit to SF at the time of our December 8 gathering. He expects to be at the gathering. Is anyone interested in having a workshop or private lessons with Gary at another time during the weekend? Since our gathering is Sunday afternoon, we could do something Sunday morning at the same location (a player's home) but we're welcome to other ideas. One of Gary's suggestions was doing something at Smythe's Accordion shop in Oakland, since they carry his books, or private lessons if there are folks interested. If you think you might be interested in a lesson or a workshop with Gary, please reply to this thread, email me at hrshsand "at" earthlink.net, or send a c.net message to Gary or to me. Gary developed his own concertina tab system that has gotten favorable reviews, and he posts very clear videos for each tune at https://www.youtube.com/user/angloconc. Gary has published a number of concertina instruction books, all of which include video demonstrations on his Youtube channel. He is also a frequent contributor (and topic of discussion) here on concertina.net. His first book was Anglo Concertina in the Harmonic Style: "This tutor will teach you how to play the 30-button Anglo concertina with chords and full harmonies in a wide variety of musical styles. In addition to tunes and exercises for beginning players, this tutor also presents more difficult tunes that have been carefully transcribed from recordings of the top Anglo concertina players of the last several decades. Assumes a 30-button C/G instrument with a Wheatstone fingering layout." His other books: Civil War Concertina (includes arrangements for 20 button Anglo) Christmas Concertina 75 Irish Session Tunes for Anglo Concertina Easy Anglo 1-2-3: A Beginner's Guide to the Anglo Concertina Pirate Songs for Concertina Sailor Songs for Concertina The Pocket Shantyman
  5. You are welcome here any time. The Metro Centre is still here! And I wish to visit Italy again before too long, Castelfidardo of course.
  6. @Theo Thanks so much, it sounds interesting! (a little off-topic: since I see you're from Gateshead, that remembers me when I stood three weeks in Whitley Bay for an English summer course, and we sometimes went to Gateshead. Is Metro Centre still there? Since we were about 15 y.o. we enjoyed it so much! This apart, Tyne and Wear is a so beautiful land sometimes I still miss!)
  7. OK, friends, thanks for good advice, here are my comments: Here's some photos. Responding to Takayuki: Yes it's the latter, and, see photos , it's 14949(x) And, responding to Seth: Judging from earlier entries from Dowright, my instrument would be dated to 1897, see below. Anglo No. 197411 made in 1926. No 174914 - circa 1903 Anglo No. 183566 dates to circa 1910. Anglo No. 174914 - circa 1903 Anglo No. 151069 - circa 1897 Anglo No 149300 1897 Anglo No.147189 is from circa 1896 Anglo No. 144430 in 1896 Anglo No 128130-- 1892 Anglo No. 109790-- 1890. Anglo No. 104739 was sold on 26 April 1888 Anglo No. 100294 was made in circa 1887. Anglo No 85842 1885 Anglo No. 84276 made circa 1885. If I am wrong, where did I go ditto? Bets of regards The Liraman
  8. I also use the air button this way.
  10. Bill, I am having a look, be patient. Try this (links in final post) https://www.concertina.net/forums/index.php?/topic/13534-nickolds-family-concertinas-information/&tab=comments#comment-130584 Geoff
  11. Does it have "Louis Lachenal" label or "Lachenal & Co" label ? If the latter, it might be 114949 (leading 1 missing) or 14949X. I once saw the photo of 15130 (slightly later than yours) which had "Louis Lachenal" label and numbered keys. That was with 20 buttons though. 🐐
  12. Sort of, but it's not the full story. The only compromise on the Holden Crane was losing the Eb4 button on the left hand side; but that was for cosmetic rather than musical reasons. (It means the button arrangement isn't quite symmetrical.) The two bisonoric buttons I have on the left (Bb2/B2 and A2/Eb3) are a compromise of sorts, but derived from the fact that long before commissioning my Holden I'd modified standard Cranes in this way to extend the range downwards. It worked for me on those so there was no reason to change when it came to the Holden. The same reasoning goes for the C#4/B3 button on the right. I toyed with the idea of a separate button for B3 (as RAc) has but couldn't see any overall advantage for me. Incidentally, the bisonoric buttons give me almost two octaves on the left - A2 to G4 with only C#3 missing. The right hand is fully chromatic from B3 to C6; and all this in a small, light, 44-button instrument. LJ
  13. Actually it's no problem. The reeds are very efficient and the bellows capacious so I never use the air button in actual playing. I use it when I'm practising sometimes and want to repeat a long phrase or something like that, but not in performance. Indeed, I don't think much about the bellows. I seem to operate in the middle half of the bellows so if I suddenly come across a note that needs a push (say) when I would otherwise have changed to pull the remaining quarter of the bellows is more than enough to get me out of trouble. LJ
  14. An interesting observation Alex🧐!
  15. It's probably less of a problem if your only bisonoric buttons are rarely-used high notes (i.e. which consume very little air). Some of @Little John's bisonoric buttons have low bass reeds that consume a lot of air, so without using an air button to compensate I imagine you could get into trouble rather quickly.
  16. Effectively!. I have same doubt. ...so... @alex_holden... would not appear necessary/suitable an air button in this case of having bisonoric?🀣
  17. Yes, my Lachenal is an Anglo like yours but with 20 buttons instead of 30. I actually have several Lachenals and a few others, duets and Anglos, no English systems.
  18. Last week
  19. Thanks Seth! And your instrument is indeed an anglo and not an English (With, I suppose, another numbering system)?
  20. Aha. Thanks to problems with my internet connection, you beat me to posting about this one. Well done. 8^)
  21. Yours is surly much older than that. My 79,001 is supposedly 1886 I believe without looking. Seth
  22. Just bought this 31 button Lachenal anglo. serial number 14949. Judging from earlier entries this would mean early 1890ies. Or am I completely wrong? Best regards to all, thankful for every bit of history here.
  23. I agree with what Dave Elliott says about possible leakage through pads. A pad tester is a very simple and very useful device. I made a very simple one from a piece of plastic rod about 18mm in diameter and about 75mm in length, you could also use wood or metal. One end should be flat and smooth with a piece of soft leather glued on the end, and the whole thing has a 5mm hold down the centre. To use it press the padded end over the pad hole from the opposite side. Place you mouth over the free end and blow gently. You should not be able to hear air passing through the pad. Check all pads and adjust them until there is no air leakage.
  24. @d.elliott Thanks Mr. Elliott I made a first set of pads with 2mm felt, card and leather (it's a thin, cloth like leather) with the smooth face down to the hole. They resulted too rigid (up to the kind of felt) and I tried making another set, using a 1.5mm black dense foam sheets (it was that stuff used for no-slipping purposes, from a diy shop). I know it's not traditional way, but I can't find the right kind of felt, so I tried this way for the moment. Generally these pads seem to work (altough I saw circle of reddish light around, watching it in the dark with a led torch inside. I don't know if this means risk of airflow, anyway I'm working at this beautiful old Lachenal to learn something, hoping to restore it the best i'll can do). I had to re-glue some of them, to have them well centered on the circular sign around the holes. It may actually happened that these pads came out not so well, and other fits better. I checked the padboard in a dark room, with led torch inside the bellows, and I spotted three points where gasket was letting the light pass; I passed all with a knife back to make it more fluffy as suggested, and put some thin leather patch between chamois and head's wall, it seemed to work well. Neither cracks nor holes. I made valves from kid's leather. They seems to work quite well, I cut smaller ones from thinner areas, and bigger from thicker. They seems to be well laying on the pad, and acting rather quickly. I'm sure there is something much better, but they seems to work in an acceptable way for now. It will be for personal use, so I can make some mistakes to be corrected in the future. I will check about the key's travel and the bushing, naturally I had not idea about it, so thanks again. (I was forgetting about, I integrated reed's slots in that area with wood, 'cause there was much space from the reed frame (from the half to the point) and chamber's wall, I thought that air might pass by someway. That didn't solve the problem, but reeds now fit more snugly.)
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