QUOTE(concertTina @ Jul 29 2004, 11:36 PM)
im new to the whole world of concertinas.. well at least to the world of owning them...
Welcome, welcome!
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i wanted to ask anyone who could help me ---
You came to the right place.
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first of all how do i value these concertinas..
Get a properly knowlegeable person to examine them.
One of the most knowledgeable is not far from you: Chris Algar of Barleycorn Concertinas, in Stoke on Trent.
He will almost certainly try to buy them from you. Don't let him!
I like Chris, and he's honorable as well as knowledgeable, but at least for now you should keep
all the instruments and try to learn to play them. Only after you've given that a good try (I'd say at least a year) should you decide which of them you want to sell, if any.
For what it's worth, I -- and many of us here -- would love to buy all those concertinas from you, but we'll reign in our greed and concertina-lust if we can turn you into a player.

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do i need to insure them??
You may be surprised -- even shocked -- to learn how much they're actually worth.
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should i get them cleaned etc so that they do not deteriorate...??
They're not likely to deteriorate from sitting in their cases at room temperature or below. If you're going to play them, you will find out soon enough whether they need any adjustment. Then we can give you advice on that (how to do simple things, who to see about serious matters).
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how do i know if they are tenor or baritone or...???
By the lowest note. Do you have some knowledge of music? If the lowest note is G below middle C, it's a treble. Lowest note C below middle C is a tenor (or tenor-treble). An octave lower than the treble is a baritone. An octave lower than the tenor is a bass. Lower than that is contrabass. An octave higher than treble is piccolo.
But any Wheatstone instrument with a serial no. 25000 or above can be found in
the Wheatstone ledgers at the Horniman Museum web site. Your #27116 is described as a 12-button miniature English-system concertina with 8-sided, nickel-plated ends, made (finished?) Nov. 19, 1920. No mention of the button material, but maybe one of our experts here knows from the date whether it's likely to be bone, ivory, or plastic. In any case, someone seeing it could probably tell.
The one with the unreadable serial no. almost certainly has a readable number inside. If you just remove the 6 or 8 end bolts around the edge of one end, you should be able to lift the end off without disturbing anything. Look both on the underside of what you lift off and on what you've lifted it from, and there's a good chance you'll find a 5-digit number without having to look deeper. (A 2- or 3-digit number is a non-unique batch number, not the same as the serial no.)
Do the instruments all have the same basic keyboard arrangement, with thumb loops and finger plates (except the miniature) for holding them? Or do some have bar-and-strap assemblies to slip the hands into, and a different arrangement of the buttons? The former is known as the English system. The latter could be either an anglo (different notes on push and pull) or a duet (same note on push and pull).
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and is there anyway to determine the value of them without going to a dealer??
Well, one of us could drop by and give an estimate. Not me, unfortunately, though I wish I could. I live in Denmark, and probably won't be able to get to England again before autumn.
Another possibility is to take digital pictures and post them on a web site or send them to one or more of us for opinions. But we'll probably want internal pictures, as well, and some things -- like speed of response, tone, and dynamic range -- can
only be judged in person.
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any website anyone can reccomend???
You've found it!

Just keep feeding us information and asking questions.