mthatcher61 Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I recently got a non-working Bastari 30b on ebay. I want to try my hand at getting it up and working. First thing I noticed was the buttons have what looks like hard black melted plastic on them. I read they are supposed to (or can)be attached to the levers with blue silicone tubing. I assume that I should take all the buttons off the levers and somehow get that black gunk off of them so I may re-attach them with 3/32 ID Blue silicone tubing (as per a post written a long time ago by George Salley) Can anybody give me a little direction as to how I can get that stuff off? Also what is that stuff? Is this original attaching material or is it some later persons botched attempt? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. This is a learning experience for me. Thanks Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theo Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Also what is that stuff? It was originally rubber! You should be able to scrape it off with a blunt knife, it is usually quite brittle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mthatcher61 Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Thanks Theo. Is that a normal property of rubber to deteriorate like that over time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theo Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 It is for the rubber in this application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mthatcher61 Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Thanks Theo, I think I have finished the easy part. I have all the buttons off and cleaned up. I have 3/32 ID blue silicone tubing ordered and on its way. I just dont understand the principle of how to mount them back on the arms. I understand to cut a little sleeve/skirt that will go over the bottom legs of the button (but not all the way down to the 'feet'). How does that tubing hold the button onto the arm? Do I cut a slit in the tubing so that I can slide the button all the way down over the arm and the crotch in the tubing pinches the button onto the arm? Is that all that is necessary to attach the buttons to the arms? Also, now that they are all cleaned up I notice that some of the legs are slightly bent, and some legs are thicker than others. I am assuming that the legs should all be straight to start with so should I straighten any that appear bent? And as for the ones where some legs are thicker than others, is that just a Quality Control issue at Bastari/Stagi? Or, are the differing widths for specific arms on the concertina? Lastly, when I do re-attach the buttons to the arms, how do I align them so they will fit back into the holes on the grill? There are no holes in the action board that the posts of the buttons go into . I have to align them on the arms so they come out of the appropriate holes in the grill when I re-attach it. Maybe I should have thought about that when I was pulling them off Thanks again for any advice. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theo Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Just cut short lengths of tubing, no slots or other shaping. The piece of tube pushes onto the leg of the button and should slightly overlap the hole. When in place the lever passing through the hole will slightly compress the tube and will hold the button approximately upright. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mthatcher61 Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Thanks Theo, I'm almost confidant I can pull this off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mthatcher61 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 I got the blue line in this weekend and started trying to reattach the buttons onto the arms today. Are the legs supposed to squeeze or pinch onto the arms to hold them in place. Mine do not (nor can I see how the silicon tubing could ever pinch these little metal legs). The best I seem to be able to do is set them down on the arms. Once they are all in place ( and no stiff wind comes along) I try to get the grill back on and over the buttons then they all fall off. Is there a trick to get them all to stay in their desired positions until I can get the grill over them or is this just a time and effort, trial and error kind of thing? Thanks Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill N Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 I got the blue line in this weekend and started trying to reattach the buttons onto the arms today. Are the legs supposed to squeeze or pinch onto the arms to hold them in place. Mine do not (nor can I see how the silicon tubing could ever pinch these little metal legs). The best I seem to be able to do is set them down on the arms. Once they are all in place ( and no stiff wind comes along) I try to get the grill back on and over the buttons then they all fall off. Is there a trick to get them all to stay in their desired positions until I can get the grill over them or is this just a time and effort, trial and error kind of thing? Thanks Mark Assuming that you've assembled them correctly, it's an excercise in patience. I've found that holding the box so that the buttons are hanging downwards, and lifting the grill up to the buttons lessens the agony! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theo Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 If you have cut the tube to the correct length shown here in the Geo Salley article then the buttons should stand firmly upright. They won't be exactly parallel or correctly spaced so you will need some patience and to gradually get them all into their holes. I find that if I can see some of the top of the button through its own hole then the point of a scalpel can be used to shift the button across to line up with the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mthatcher61 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 I think they are the right length Theo. The do stand up for a bit but, it doesn't take much for then to tip over or fall off. I know you don't want then sitting on the metal of the crotch and you done want the tubing to cover too much of the legs or it will fall off. I have cut as well as I can per Geo Salley's picture. I have come almost close a couple of times. When I am attempting to get the grill on I start with the air button, line up the 1st set of three and slowly try to maneuver the grill to line up to the rest and inevitably I one of the buttons further from the air button will fall off. I can see it is a matter of time and patience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Molkentin Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 I can see it is a matter of time and patience. Yes, it can be done... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglogeezer Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 I think the difficulty is that the metal part of Mark's buttons is open at the end. He refers to "legs". He says :- "Are the legs supposed to squeeze or pinch onto the arms to hold them in place. Mine do not (nor can I see how the silicon tubing could ever pinch these little metal legs). " Am I correct Mark?? I have a GREMLIN anglo (Stagi by another name). The buttons are similair except the "legs" are closed across the bottom which makes a SLOT. Thus, the button slides onto the lever via the SLOT. The rubber tube, when compressed presses down on the top of the lever, pulling the bottom of the SLOT upwards against the bottom of the lever. This holds the button securely in place. regards Jake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mthatcher61 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Jake you correct. My legs are open at the bottom. I have to balance them in their correct position on the arm. The main benefit from the silicone tubing is it sticks (a little) to the metal arm and temporarily keeps the button from sliding out of position. I got one side on finally. I turned it around and came at it from the opposite side of the air button. A couple of the buttons are a little crooked but it looks and works, pretty well otherwise. 1 more side to go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theo Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Well spotted Jake! I had not noticed that. Changes the problem completely. Thinks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mthatcher61 Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 (edited) I am wondering if I would be introducing the devil into the mix if I taped off the bottom of my 'Legs' and then 'punched the arms through the tape. it would create a sort of gasket that would hold them in place. The only thing would be if debris fell off and ended up in the reeds. That might be more trouble than its worth. He is a picture of my open ended 'legs' is this not the norm for Bastari/Stagi buttons? You can also see in the middle button how some legs are cut un-even. One leg is noticeably thicker than the other. Edited March 13, 2012 by mthatcher61 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisper Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 (edited) I am wondering if I would be introducing the devil into the mix if I taped off the bottom of my 'Legs' and then 'punched the arms through the tape. it would create a sort of gasket that would hold them in place. The only thing would be if debris fell off and ended up in the reeds. That might be more trouble than its worth. He is a picture of my open ended 'legs' is this not the norm for Bastari/Stagi buttons? You can also see in the middle button how some legs are cut un-even. One leg is noticeably thicker than the other. Having been a member the Stagi owners club many years ago, I think it is indeed true that the buttons have been modified from the originals. There should be a tab protruding from the bottom of each button with a closed rectangular slot. The technique is to measure a bit of tubing just long enough to slide onto the tab, and then fit on to the lever. The tubing should just compress a bit so that the button/tab does not slide easily off. Then one must herd the buttons into approximate position, using the metal end of the concertina as a guide. You will then need a sharp tool, like a large needle, and hovering the metal end over the buttons, very gently coax them thru their respective holes. At first, it's a bit daunting, but after some practice, it can be done rather quickly. I suggest seeking a new set of buttons, give the Button Box a try, they may have access to spares. Edited March 13, 2012 by twisper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mthatcher61 Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 So close but so far. I got almost all of them lined up and headed towards their respective holes when G#/Bb fell. I buttoned it up anyway out of sheer exasperation. I wish I had the other style buttons that had the bottoms filled in. Oh well, F and A aren't what they are cracked up to be.... I notice also the buttons are uneven and some tend to go crooked. I assume that has something to do with the length of the cut tubing. I will have to revisit the tubing. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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