alex_holden Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 Why not find someone with either a Pantogaph Engraving Machine or a small C N C. It is obvious from repairing 'Tinas that the Pantograph was used. If you are struggling with the Inlay's then there are electro-formers around Birmingham or I can suggest an Engraving Company In Leicester to do them. and the pockets for the inlays Thanks, I have just received a beautiful set of original inlays thanks to the generosity of somebody on the forum. I have been practising cutting out the pockets/cavities using a razor-sharp scalpel and carving chisel as Dave suggested (though I need to make some special tiny chisels as I don't currently have any that are narrow enough to get into the fine details). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Have a look at Dremel multitool system Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Crossland Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 I have the fretwork of the new ends I fit laser cut. The laser cutter can now "engrave" the surface of the wood, so if I want to inlay a corner decoration, or a nice Lachenal metal oval, as used on their new model, I incorporate the outline into the cad drawing and the cutter will take out the shape to an appropriate depth.... almost magic, and a sight quicker and easier than the manual alternatives, if not as "traditional" or satisfying........... I have to add that I have a particularly understanding laser cutting business I work with! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Ghent Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Veneering around the edge profile looks tricky too. I'm not sure how the cheapest of Lachenals were done but as a rule if you have a veneered end you would not try to veneer an edge profile but instead rout a cavity and fit a moulding of some sort. If you look at most veneered furniture you will see this method used. Very rarely is the edge of a veneered end just profiled because it displays the layers of the wood. You do see this on very cheap concertinas. Instruments with solid ends can be routed with a single cutter shaped to the profile you want. I made a few by centering a round cutter on the outside line and then rounding the subsequent outside edge by hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Ghent Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 I was practising this last night and thinking I could do with forging a pair of really tiny skewed spoon chisels for flattening the bottom of the cavity. A long time ago (40 years) I replaced an inlay on a Vega banjo, the bottom of the cavity was very rough. It looked to me like they put a generous amount of filler in first and levelled the inlay in the filler. They may then have scraped the top of the inlay to get it flush with the wood, or maybe they were very good at levelling it in the filler. I wish I could do that job again, I could make a really nice job of it now; the right tools and not being in a hurry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex_holden Posted October 17, 2013 Author Share Posted October 17, 2013 I have the fretwork of the new ends I fit laser cut. The laser cutter can now "engrave" the surface of the wood, so if I want to inlay a corner decoration, or a nice Lachenal metal oval, as used on their new model, I incorporate the outline into the cad drawing and the cutter will take out the shape to an appropriate depth.... almost magic, and a sight quicker and easier than the manual alternatives, if not as "traditional" or satisfying........... I have to add that I have a particularly understanding laser cutting business I work with! Impressive that they can do that with a CNC laser now. About a decade ago my brother ran a laser cutting workshop, churning out thousands of widgets every day, mostly from stainless steel or aluminium. A CNC router/mill could easily mill out the cavities too (given a very small diameter bit and an accurate CAD model of the outline), but as I'm doing this as a hobby I would rather do it myself the traditional way. I'll be doing the fretwork with a variable speed electric scroll saw. Incidentally I have a manual Taig micro mill (currently in storage and not easily accessible) that "one day" I intend to convert to CNC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex_holden Posted October 17, 2013 Author Share Posted October 17, 2013 Veneering around the edge profile looks tricky too. I'm not sure how the cheapest of Lachenals were done but as a rule if you have a veneered end you would not try to veneer an edge profile but instead rout a cavity and fit a moulding of some sort. If you look at most veneered furniture you will see this method used. Food for thought. I'm going to make some practice boards first so I can experiment with veneering around the profile. The thin veneer is quite flexible but perhaps not flexible enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex_holden Posted October 17, 2013 Author Share Posted October 17, 2013 Here's the style of chisel I'm planning to forge for flattening the bottom of the cavities (perhaps a couple in different widths): http://www.ashleyilestoolstore.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5_79&products_id=1375 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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